At Lievito, pizza-making is a science. Sort of.
“After you eat the pizza, it should sit here,” says owner Omar Maseroli, as he places his hands on his stomach. “Not here,” he adds, moving his hands up towards his chest.
We’ve never heard this pizza trick before, but it makes a kind of sense. Of course you want the pizza settling in your stomach, right? Of course you don’t want it lingering too long near your esophagus.
This is the Italian wisdom of one of Beijing’s best-known Italian restaurateurs. Maseroli opened both Mercante, the delightful trattoria in the hutongs, and Fiume, Mercante’s sister in Maizidian. Now, he’s rounded out the trifecta with Lievito, a charming addition to Beijing’s growing pizza scene.
At Lievito, Maseroli pours just as much love and culinary know-how into pizzas as he does into his other, more upscale restaurants. The menu here is divided into classic and gourmet pizzas, but even the classics have an air of the gourmet. Dough here is produced with love and precision, and diners can even choose which kind they’d prefer – a classic, artisan Italian dough, or a heartier variety featuring German grains. (We love the grains.)
We start off with the panzerotto, a dish resembling a fried calzone that's not available anywhere else in Beijing. Our Napoli-style option features mozzarella and anchovies, a delectable mix of saucy and tangy.
Our classic pizza is a crowd-pleaser that features sausage and greens. Our gourmet pizza, though, is hands-down the best – the Stuffed Crust (RMB148) is topped with ham and crushed walnuts, and filled with ricotta cheese.
While Lievito may be a bit tough to find – it’s up a flight of stairs just along a quiet section of the Liangma River, its seclusion is an advantage. With its sexy interior and understated, relaxed vibes, this just might be your best bet for date night. (Just make sure your date is hungry.)
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