Location, location, location: it’s the difference between a successful restaurant and that high-end Italian-Chinese-fusion eatery in Shuangjing, that you’ve long since forgotten the name of – what was it called again? Yes, when it comes to picking a spot for your hip new joint in Beijing today, there’s really only one sure-fire choice: Sanlitun’s Courtyard 4. Once a derelict graveyard of failed dreams and raging neon mega-clubs, the unassuming Sanlitun spillover has somehow transformed into the most in-demand slice of premier real estate east of the Second Ring Road.
Despite having all the environmental charm and grace of a suburban parking lot, Courtyard 4 has managed to attract an astonishing assortment of Beijing hotspots, including Jing-A, The Local, Homeplate, The Taco Bar, De Refter, The Rug and Park 17. Adding itself to that list, is Hong Kong export Rouge.
With its retro neon signage, vinyl-lined Art Deco bar and 1960s Hong Kong tourist posters, this high-end diner certainly looks the part. The menu too, sticks true to its traditional Cantonese roots, offering diners an impressive selection of all-day dim sum staples, including steamed shrimp dumplings (RMB28) chilled coconut pudding cubes (an absolute must, RMB23) and some of the very best steamed spare ribs with black bean sauce found anywhere north of the Yangtze (RMB18).
But this is more than just an all-day-breakfast type place. The menu also boasts a selection of classic Hong Kong dishes, such as sea cucumber in abalone broth (RMB198) and braised goose feet with grey mushroom (rich and plentiful, RMB68). For those unfamiliar with Cantonese cuisine (pointer: it’s light, delicate and not covered in oil and hot spice), the menu features a variety of six-course set menus (RMB268-898) designed to showcase the chefs’ best creations.
Of course, this being a Hong Kong joint, much of the menu is given over to seafood. The fresh mandarin fish (RMB128) – cooked to perfection and braised in a light sauce – is a particular standout. Simple, clean and absolutely bursting with flavors, it is a reminder that of all the regions in China, nowhere cooks fish as well as the Cantonese.
The real highlight though is the roasted squab (AKA pigeon, above, RMB48). What it lacks in size, this diminutive bird makes up for in flavor. A leaner, more complex taste than Beijing roasted duck, the squab – especially when dipped in sea salt – has a rich, distinctive taste that’s both gamey and surprisingly fragrant.
There it is, a little slice of Kowloon, right here in Courtyard 4, whatever next?
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