The Place
In a quiet corner of the OCT, nestled between cute cafes and apartment buildings, is Voisin Organique.
An unassuming brick entrance in an alleyway belies a restaurant with great aspirations. Voisin Organique requires diners to RSVP at least a day in advance, and takes pride in sourcing ingredients from a network of organic farms around China.
On the restaurant’s Dianping page, sprinkled among food photos are shots of greenhouses, freshly unearthed taro roots and the odd free-range fowl.
In a city where organic food, not to mention farm-to-table, is still catching on, Voisin is a trailblazer.
The Food
We sample the 10-course tasting menu for December (RMB488 a person), a series of carefully executed, locally inspired bites.
Each dish bears the name of a place or in the case of the starter, a time: ‘childhood’ is the inspiration behind what looks like a simple wafer cookie. A bite reveals a ‘filling’ of chilled foie gras, however, smooth and slightly sweet with the addition of raisins.
It’s followed by servings of tuna belly (imported from Spain) garnished with slivers of vegetables and marinade, ‘Shunde’ style. The lightly sour, nutty seasoning enhances rather than masks the flavor of the raw fish.
Overall, the cookery excels when natural ingredients are allowed to shine: highlights include a rich chicken consommé flavored with coconut water; tiny wild chestnuts served with a salty dipping sauce; and a clear, spherical jelly made of concentrated tomato broth.
The only (slight) disappointment of the meal is the steak: the tender, medium-rare meat is nearly overwhelmed with sauce, dried onion flakes, fermented garlic and a runny egg yolk.
The Vibe
Given the pricing and number of courses, you’ll want to set aside two or three hours to properly enjoy a meal at Voisin Organique.
Service is polite, if unhurried, during our weekday lunch. Waitresses top up our glasses of water and kale-pear juice frequently, but the time between courses is sometimes long enough to fit in whole conversations.
We’re rewarded, however, with meticulously designed dishes that both satisfy and stimulate the senses. In an era where delivery and fast food reign supreme, it’s a reminder that sometimes true quality takes time.
Price: RMB488
Who’s going: health-conscious diners, in-the-know epicures
Good for: long conversations, fusion fine dining
Nearest metro: Baishizhou (Exit A), 24 minutes
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