‘Foppish’ is a tragically underused word. I was therefore delighted when it was the first one that came to mind as I entered UTAU. Then, quick as a flash – ‘dandyish.’ Clearly, we were both on a roll.
But alas and alack, my dear old-fashioned heart sank to the floor when the triple-tiered tea tray settled on our table. No scones. No clotted cream. No jam. As a lifelong user and abuser of afternoon tea, their conspicuous absence was an injurious setback both to my estimation of the establishment, as well as my own peace of mind.
But I quickly learned that looks, in the land of UTAU, can be deeply deceiving. The decaying, nostalgic elegance of the décor - which comprises a selection of chintzy couches and eclectic antiques - belies an unabashedly modern menu, and a devilishly overpriced cuppa (RMB40 for a tea bag in water) damn nearly distracts you from the affordability of the afternoon tea set (RMB249).
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Just as you acclimatize to the miasma of understated and age-old romance that hangs in the air, these thick fogs are jarringly dispelled by the presentation of a cloying and colorful cake, rainbow hues summoning to memory one's every childhood birthday party.
But therein lay the ultimate sleight of hand: this outwardly fashion-fixated cafe is also fastidious about the quality of its fare. The unreal, technicolored treat was surprisingly light and subtle, topped with rich and very real cream.
As far as afternoon teas go, UTAU is not where you will realize your Downton dreams, your make-believe Bridesheads or your Bertie Wooster wishes; but it is a foppishly, dandyishly fine place to while away the late afternoon and welcome in the evening, before buoyantly embarking to boozier pastures - ready to fly by night afloat a bubbly buzz, sails rapped by the billows of a lingering sugar rush.
Price: RMB48-50 for cocktails; RMB80 for lunch sets; RMB249 for afternoon tea sets.
Who’s going: Young Chinese hipsters and fashion types
Good for: People watching; hang out spot; casual drinking
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