New restaurant: Essence Cafe

When Taiwanese ad man Zheng Songmao followed his passion and opened a coffee shop in Shanghai three years ago, he didn’t expect the business to boom so quickly. Within two years, three comfortable spots popped up across the city. For his fourth, Zheng presents the city with his flagship masterpiece; Essence Cafe, creating a choice spot for epicureans and coffee aficionados alike.

Boasting an outdoor seating area in the newly-launched strip of F&B outlets south of Xintiandi , the three-storey cafe and restaurant is a striking, airy space boasting lots of natural light. On the first floor, arresting red high stools line the spacious bar, which is gilded and adorned by specialty coffee equipment. Along the floor-to-ceiling windows, there are more stools perfect for sipping drinks and gazing out onto the sidewalk. 

It is here where you can sample an array of specialty coffee beans (RMB40-150/cup), procured from renowned growing estates from around the world. In the hefty, magazine-like menu, each bean – whose names often sound magical - is given two pages of introduction: the story of the farm, the taste profile, and flavors you’ll find. Sinar Madheling (RMB50), from Indonesia, may have hints of guava and flowers. Elida Honey (RMB60), from Panama, is purported to have whiffs of fresh berries, orange and honey comb. 

These are coffees that are treated like fine wines, each given a different roasting and brewing temperature to bring out hidden flavors. Experienced barista Charles Huang is the ultimate coffee geek, making sure complex tasting gradients are expressed through meticulous operation. As we opted for Colombia-born Esperanza Geisha (RMB90), Charles carefully weighed the beans on scale and calculated the boiling time. The result is tart and sweet, with a unique cocoa scent.

But one cannot live on coffee alone. Follow the flower-decorated swirl of a staircase that rises up to the second floor for a bite of fine dining. Here, you’ll find an extensive menu of Mediterranean delicacies including tapas, pastas, risottos and desserts in a stylish and relaxed vibe. 

The menu changes constantly and follows seasonal themes. During our summer visit, seafood was a highlight. This means a refreshing cucumber avocado gazpacho (RMB88), garnished with a plump oyster, dots of salmon caviar and goat cheese for a creamy touch. The whole is light and summery, resonating below with deep-sea flavor. Seared scallops and abalone (RMB140) arrived fresh and sizeable, the fleshy shellfish decorated with a peppery salad that offsets the brine and char.

A hearty portion of pan-fried tuna with miso and blackberry sauce (RMB168) is another well-compiled work of art. Bedecked with green leaves, edible flowers and grilled zucchini, the generous piece of tuna is tender and juicy.

When night darkens, the first floor transitions into a bar and it’s time for Essence’s special cocktail, Jaffa (RMB88), to take the stage. Fusing coffee with layers of vanilla- and citrus-based liquors, the elegant, complex and fruity aromas make for a great ending to the evening.

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