The Shanghai food scene goes through fads; trendy concepts that seem to be the hottest new thing... until they're not.
Restaurateurs jump on the bandwagon quickly, and we find ourselves with 15 new French wine bars or 27 gelato shops, all opening in the same year. Ok, we exaggerate, but you get the picture.
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Well, Shanghai's wanghong favorites lately seem to be Japanese izakayas.
Maybe it's the curling tendrils of smoke, sensually rising from a binchotan grill; the smell of charred meat with a hint of miso that fills the air; or the sizzle of juicy fat dripping off of layers of crisp skin.
Whatever it is, we aren't alone in saying we can't get enough.
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In the last few months, we've crushed our fair share of yakitori and Japanese small plates – some from newly opened hotspots, others from Shanghai institutions that have been around longer than we have.
While this roundup just grazes the tip of the izakaya iceberg, here are a few venues worth noting, for better or for worse.
Akatsuki (aka Xiao's Izakaya)
Gubei is a trek, but Akatsuki makes it worth it. A favorite amongst Japanese businessmen, hip locals and in-the-know expats, this seafood-focused izakaya is always the best meal of your week.
Instead of the customary grilled meats and chicken parts, Akatsuki focuses on sushi, sashimi and other Japanese dishes beginning with 's' – like sukiyaki.
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The fish quality is par none, with pudgy tuna belly, delicate mackerel and slippery prawns.
Ask nicely, and the staff will even cook your leftover shrimp heads into a miso broth with plump clams for an extra RMB28.
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Ultra-fatty Tuna Belly Ngiri (RMB58/piece), brushed lightly with soy sauce and wasabi, are adorned with crowns of velvety sea urchin, the most sultry of bites that helped this restaurant garner its loyal following.
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Aside from seafood, the crispy Potstickers (RMB38); the hockey puck-sized Chicken Meatballs (RMB19/piece) served in a drinkable ponzu and egg yolk sauce; and the shredded rather than cubed Beef Tartar (RMB78) are all big wins.
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Dine in a group of more than two people and it would be sacrilegious to skip the Sukiyaki (RMB128/person).
Bubbling sweetened broth chock-full of cabbage, onions, tofu and greens is sheathed in paper thin layers of marbled beef. Slurp down that extra bit of broth with Grilled Rice (RMB20).
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The vibe is always bumping, the owner is welcoming and the highballs flow more than freely in extra large, frothy mugs the size of your head.
For Akatsuki, we will now be heading to Gubei on the reg.
Akatsuki, 2/C, 48 Xingyi Lu 兴义路48号C栋2楼.
Atelier Izakaya
At Daniel An’s (Atelier Group) Atelier Izakaya, industrial warehouse decor, exposed painted brick, rustic sliding barnyard doors and metallic aluminum chairs have replaced the deceased Arch on Shanxi Bei Lu, and have become a welcome Bund-adjacent addition on Yan'an Dong Lu.
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While others (*cough* Hundo *cough*) may take themselves a bit too seriously as an authentic Japanese izakaya, Atelier Izakaya is more trendy and young, embracing its Japanese roots but still assuming a Chinese twist.
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The Wagyu Uni Rice (RMB98) is a bowl of excess at its finest. Raw A5 Wagyu beef cubes and luscious slabs of sea urchin perch atop sushi rice like melting butter.
Drag a chopstick across the onsen egg’s thin outer coating and watch the climactic explosion of warm, velvety yolk dribble down the side of the bowl.
Briny pearls of bright orange salmon roe burst with each bite, cutting through the fatty richness, begging you to go in for another scoop… or shovelful.
Do you need a cigarette yet?
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Other can't miss small plates include thinly sliced Tenderloin (RMB88) elevated by a lashing of yuzu sauce, black truffle and fried garlic; spicy Pork Throat (RMB48); and Grilled Eel Over Rice (RMB58).
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The yakitori meats are well prepared, albeit a bit tranquil (there is nothing wrong with that – give the people what they want... and expect!)
Grilled on bamboo skewers and served with fresh calamansi, any of the regular hitters will do – Chicken Tail (RMB13); fat-capped Chicken Oyster [Blade] (RMB18); meaty Chicken Breast (RMB18); or fragrant Plum Shiso Chicken Thigh (RMB18).
The meat is tender, the sauces are flavorful, and the portion sizes match the price.
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Despite the open layout and size, Atelier Izakaya has a bar vibe that makes you crave another round of sake.
Whether it’s the groovy 70s jams pumping out beats that are hard not to bump and grind to or the black paint coating most surfaces that make you feel like a heathen of the night, something about the space urges us to drink…heavily.
(Yet somehow food is still the focus.)
Read a full review here.
Atelier Izakaya, 688 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Kangding Lu 688 陕西北路, 近康定路.
Chidori-Ashi 千鸟足
Walk north past the Huichuan Lu entrance of Metro Town or Meigui Fang (玫瑰坊) mall, and curve to the right to uncover an alley full of Japanese food havens – a mecca for Japanese eats. And Chidori-Ashi is one of our go-tos for all things grilled meat.
Although less interesting in vibe compared to neighboring Toriyasu (see below), the notably friendly service and expertly roasted skewers accelerate this izakaya towards the top of our list in the city.
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A tad rough around the edges, the haphazardly taped up posters, post-it labeled bottles of homebrewed alcohol and makeshift cubby stools add character to this charming venue.
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Select from any of the 13 chicken parts on the menu, ranging in price from RMB8-15 per skewer.
The ultra-crispy Chicken Skin (RMB8) is surefire win, as well as the Chicken Thigh & Leek (RMB10) – almost an entire thigh’s worth of meat per skewer arrives glossy with oil seeping from the taut, stretched skin.
Scorched Squid (RMB38) is seasoned with chili powder and cayenne, cooled by a quick dunk in some tangy kewpie mayo,
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Mackerel (RMB28) flesh flakes from the bone, firm and slightly opaque. A gasp of fresh lemon allows the fish’s natural oiliness to shine, both literally and figuratively.
Dumplings (RMB20), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Carbs range from crispy Dumplings (RMB20), to okonomiyaki hailing from Osaka (ever so popular in international foodie epicenters), and Chidori-Ashi is just one of many places that offers it to guests in Metro Town.
Selecting from different seafood, meat, and veg fillings, we suggest the the classic combination of Pork and Kimchi Japanese Pancake (RMB42).
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Chidori-Ashi, 1/F, #36-38, 890 Chagning Lu, by Huichuan Lu 长宁路890号玫瑰坊一楼36-38商铺.
Drunk Uncle
A Japanese izakaya, in some shape or form, seemingly opens every week, but Drunk Uncle is not some new wanghong spot with bells-and-whistles plates designed specifically for photos.
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In fact, it first opened back in 2013 on Changhua Lu, and since then has closed and reopened twice in different locations.
At its core, however, it remains the same – an unpretentious, beer-focused neighborhood hangout with a nod to Japanese izakaya culture.
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The venues most-ordered dish is the Drunkard Intestines with Fries (RMB69), a plate that finds its way onto every diner’s table.
The greasy crunch of the intestines exterior is quickly overpowered by the gelatinous center of unrendered fat, further enhanced by the mineral-forward intestine aroma.
For some, this is appealing. For others, not so much. Understand your personal preferences before diving in.
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Our number one must-order, the Chicken Meatball (RMB20/each) is an oblong baton of fat-dripping meaty indulgence, coated in a soy, mirin, sugar and rice vinegar-based sauce.
The crispy exterior gives way to the tender meat inside – exactly how any meatball, regardless of cuisine, should be.
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Ribbon-like ripples of thinly sliced Pork Belly (RMB18/each) are threaded through a wooden skewer, resulting in meat that dimples from the sear of the hot grill, melting the fat into a slick layer of added flavor.
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Puffed up like bloated blowfish, seared Rice Cakes’ (RMB36) – whose crackly coating reveals a squishy center – are flavored by a tangy thousand island style dipping mayo.
You also can’t beat Suntory highballs for RMB25 either. No complaints here.
That said, sadly the beer selection doesn’t hold the same clout it once did. Most tap beers are mainstream – Asahi, Goose Island and the like – with a Belgian and German leaning bottle list.
Overall, the experience at Drunk Uncle is unelaborate, stripped down, a shining example of minimalism.
It maintains its air of welcoming informality, an ethos embodied in the chalkboard menu, the modest décor and the food – both in how it’s cooked and presentation.
Read a full review here.
Drunk Uncle, 403 Taizhou Lu, by Yuyao Lu 泰州路403号, 近余姚路.
Hundo
Climb the stairs of the 20 Donghu Lu villa, and enter the dimly lit Hundo – where you’re instantly transported out of Shanghai and into a bustling yakitori joint in the heart of Tokyo.
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Your field of vision takes in a dark wooden bar lined with chefs scoring sashimi, slicing steaks and serving sake and shochu, all while the aroma of roasting snapper, charred chicken skin and a hint of yuzu fill your nostrils... the authenticity makes you feel like you should be paying in Japanese yen.
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The menu spans sashimi, cold and hot bites, charcoal grilled dishes, yakitori, kushiage (deep-fried skewers), tempura, yakiniku (grilled meat) and rice.
It sounds like a lot, but as most are small dishes or skewers, you can do some serious damage with just two people.
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From Beef Tartar (RMB118) that sees mayo swapped out for spread-worthy sea urchin, and added brightness from the bursting salmon roe spheres, to Grilled 5 Days Dry Aged Chicken Thigh (RMB68) with taught skin that puckers and crisps to reveal the most mouthwatering of meat underneath, the small plates can easily lead you astray from the grilled meat.
Fight that urge and save room for what's to come.
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Some of the most succulent yakitori we found in all of Shanghai comes from Hundo.
There, we said it.
Dripping Oyster Blade (RMB15) is grilled lightly so it firms up without scorching, resulting in a welcoming dribble of chicken juice down your chin if not eaten in one bite, while the Thigh & Leek (RMB20) is crispy yet tender in all the right ways – roasted fat leeks interlaced between nuggets of chicken perfection.
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With minimalist cooking like yakitori, the narrow spectrum between bland and delicious can be measured in flecks of salt, and Hundo has that measurement down to a science.
Read a full review here.
Hundo, 20 Donghu Lu, by Xinle Lu 东湖路20号, 近新乐路.
Junn Izakaya
Junn Izakaya is the antidote to the chaos of Wukang Market; a calm space in the center of the humming hubbub – a traditional Japanese izakaya.
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The venue is part of the Mr. Willis & Mi group – a veritable trio of restaurateurs and creatives behind Shanghai institutions like Mi Thai, Raku and Apollo.
It’s a place you go to scratch an izakaya itch, if not necessarily explore unchartered territory. There’s comfort in receiving the expected, especially in the world of constant “wow” that is Shanghai. And Junn is just that.
Grilled meat, fresh seafood, a handful of steaks and charred veggies cover the majority of the anticipated izakaya menu.
The focus is – no surprise here – chicken, with a smattering of conventional and rare parts to choose from.
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Crisp Chicken Leg with Leek or Shiso (RMB28) delivers in juiciness, with a refreshingly herbaceous finish owed to the greenery.
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Silver-hued Japanese Mackerel (RMB118) is speared and threaded along a wooden skewer, its skin crackling open to reveal oily, firm flesh that flakes off in buttery hunks.
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There are a few flashy Dianping snap-worthy dishes (as is pretty much a requirement these days) – namely the Wagyu and Sea Urchin Tartare (RMB62), a mix of luxury ingredients flecked with caviar atop a nori chip.
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There’s also a handful of Japanese-inspired cocktails, like the Sake Sakura (RMB80), as well as highballs, plum wine, shochu and sake.
Read a full review here.
Junn Izakaya, 98 Wukang Lu, by Wuyuan Lu 武康路98号, 近五原路.
Kilo
Walking through the nondescript building entrance into Wuding Lu’s newest “speakeasy-style” izakaya Kilo, it must be how Jeff Bridges’ character felt when he was transported inside the software world of a mainframe computer in the movie Tron.
Reverberating with deep bass beats, it is shadowy and mostly onyx-hued, crisscrossed with glowing crimson lighting and a pattern of exactly 1,000 squares throughout – hence the name Kilo, meaning ‘one thousand’ in Greek.
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The menu is what you expect from an izakaya – primarily chicken with a handful of beef, seafood and pigeon dishes, plus veggies, snacks, sashimi and carbs.
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Like all izakayas, there are the more common chicken parts – Thigh Meat with Leek (RMB16), Wing (RMB15), Chicken Oyster (RMB22) and, our personal favorite – Thigh Meat with Perilla & Plum Sauce (RMB22)…
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…plus the more venturesome chicken giblets – Heart (RMB16), Gizzard (RMB16), Liver (RMB16), Ovary (RMB22), and a Chicken Meatball (RMB18) with the exact meat-to-cartilage ratio we love to see, best enjoyed dunked in a runny egg yolk.
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The restaurant’s signature dish, the Wagyu Mapo Tofu (RMB88) is a combination of two Chengdu staples – mapo tofu and dan dan mian – sprinkled with seared slices of smoked Wagyu beef.
The tofu is firm enough to pick up with chopsticks, yet supple enough to shmear across buttered toast, slathered in a lip-tingling, ground pork-laden mala sauce.
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Surrounded by sake bottles and boasting a cocktail menu just as long as the food one, it’s no surprise that Kilo leans a bit more party.
And, when you order that ideal sake bottle, your decision informed by the in-house sake sommelier, he presents it to you accompanied by a box of one-off glasses, so you can choose whichever fits your drinking mood the most.
Read a full review here.
Kilo, 2/F, 595 Wuding Lu, by Xikang Lu 武定路595号2楼，近西康路.
Ma-ia-ki
Ma-ia-ki is the newest in Shanghai’s long lineup of izakayas, brought to us by the renowned Vos Families Food & Beverage Group (Vinism, SOiF, Ottimo, Le Daily, the Warehouse, Suzie) and located in Surpass Court on Yongjia Lu.
The space is sleek and dark, with 16 seats circumnavigating the restaurant’s focal point – a backlit binchotan Japanese charcoal grill; one that brings more heat and less smoke, so diners can enjoy the grill master at work without smelling like they just left a bonfire.
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More than just a yakitori that customarily focuses on chicken, Ma-ia-ki specializes first and foremost in yakihato, or open-fire grilled pigeon, along with more traditional skewers, sashimi, small plates and sides.
Chef Guo applies the techniques gathered over 15 years behind the flames to the restaurant’s 10-14 days dry-aged Chongming Island pigeon, a bird that seems to be that latest buzz word ingredient in Shanghai.
READ MORE: 6 Places for Pigeon – China's Tastiest Culinary Experiment
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The Aged Thigh’s (RMB68) taut skin chars to a rich, dark brown that – when pulled away (preferably with ravenous teeth) – reveals the juiciest of meat underneath.
In the same vein, the Aged Breast (RMB68) is denser, yet still equally moist, highlighting the protein’s deeply gamey and complex flavor.
There is a reason the pigeon is their specialty, and they treat it with the respect it deserves.
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Diners can also expect everyday cuts like Chicken Thigh (RMB28), with a garland of chiffonade perilla leaf; Wings (RMB26); and ruffled pleats of Skin (RMB24) that needed just a few seconds more on the grill for that necessary crunch.
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For the intrepid eaters, there’s springy Diaphragm (RMB28); parsley pesto-dominated Neck (RMB20) (where the meat is regrettably overpowered by its condiment); and Chochin (RMB28) – underdeveloped, pendulous eggs still attached to the chicken ovaries, allowing diners to relish in the erupting egg yolk, an ooze reminiscent of that first bite of an Eggs Benedict.
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For as shadowy and intimate as the space is, they bump an upbeat playlist, encouraging guests to remain lively and continue drinking – an equally important partner to the food.
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For that, there’s a lineup of Highballs (RMB88) – in funky flavors like mung bean, coffee, hawthorn with black sugar, and Jasmine sake – and Cocktails (RMB98), in addition to the wine program.
Read a full review here.
ma-ia-ki, 1/F, Bldg 2, 570 Yongjia Lu, by Yueyang Lu 永嘉路570号2栋1楼，近岳阳路.
Overdose
Go out to Gubei, and yes, you will most definitely find more authentic Japanese yakitori than Overdose – a hip, semi-unknown izakaya on Huashan Lu.
But sometimes our love for a restaurant isn’t solely focused on the food; it’s an amalgamation of what we eat, how we eat it, the music, the service and the atmosphere that culminate into a memorable experience.
Food is what’s on the plate, but dining extends beyond that. People forget how powerful the culture of a restaurant can be.
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Overdose is miniscule, yet every time we’ve been, we end up staying for hours.
Why?
Because with the perfect whirlwind of steaming grilled meat skewers, free-flowing highballs and self-regulated karaoke that brings together both friends and strangers, it’s hard to justify moving elsewhere.
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The price on the menu is per skewer, and nothing on the menu costs more than RMB50, with most skewers falling in the RMB10-20 range – this is food is designed to be ordered again and again.
And so we do just that, along with countless cheap Highballs (RMB38), Sours (RMB32) and Asahis (RMB20)... just like the izakaya gods intended.
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Usual suspects, like sauced or salted Chicken Skewers (RMB10) and charred Chicken and Green Onion (RMB12) form a base, while crispy Chicken Wings (RMB18) and pleasantly chewy Beef Tongue (RMB20) get into the good stuff.
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Do not skip the Chicken Meatballs (RMB16). We repeat – do not even think about skipping them.
Three golf ball-sized spheres are pierced through the center with a skewer, each coated in a slightly sticky paste made of soy sauce, mirin, sugar and rice vinegar. The scorched exterior acquiesces to a springy ground meat blend inside.
We are strong believers that yakitori tastes better when served with a side of hip hop. Roll up with a larger group, and you become DJ for the night of your own private meat-skewer filled nightclub – Overdose's defining characteristic that makes it stand out from the rest.
Read a full review here.
Overdose, 785-2 Huashan Lu, by Changle Lu 华山路785-2号, 近长乐路.
Torishou
The warming atmosphere at Torishou (鸟啸炭火烧酒场) is emphasized by the overly friendly staff and organized chaos within the open kitchen.
Here, you can see dozens of skewers – holding every part of a chicken you could possibly think of (and even some you can’t) – roasting on an open flame.
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Owner William Zhang is a restaurant entrepreneur with an affinity for Japanese food done right.
He owns four Japanese restaurants around Shanghai (and a number of other establishments), including Sushi Takumi, Shi Jian, Man Long and Torishou, each focusing on a distinct ingredient or style of Japanese cuisine.
He knows his stuff when it comes to Japanese food, to put it lightly. “Maybe in my last life I was Japanese,” says Zhang, smiling coyly while popping a peppered chicken gizzard in his mouth.
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With a focus on using every part of the chicken, the menu includes around 30 different cuts to choose from (including raw chicken sashimi, if you dare).
On any given day, the restaurant also boasts an exclusive “secret menu,” with varying items available depending on the market.
From chicken throat to chicken knees to chicken comb (that wobbly red part on top of a chicken’s head), Torishou has it all.
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For the adventurous eater, the Undeveloped Eggs (RMB20) steal the show. Each skewer comes with four to five drooping eggs, about the size of a hard-boiled quail egg, still attached to the ovaries, which are grilled and glazed. Pop the outer layer of skin and enjoy a tidal wave of yolk.
If eggs still attached to organs are too much to handle mentally, the more common Eggs (RMB17) still have that same creamy, erupting yolk and sweet, savory glaze, but they are served with no other chicken parts attached, making it a bit easier to stomach.
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Side dishes range from Cheese Tofu (RMB12) to Fried Shrimp (RMB48) to Grilled Rice Cakes (RMB15).
From mastering the basics to rewarding the audacious, Torishou is your dream destination for a Tokyo getaway that costs far less than a plane ticket.
Read a full review here.
Torishou, 628 Changle Lu, by Xiangyang Lu 长乐路628号, 近襄阳路.
Toriyasu
A longstanding favorite amongst foreigners and Chinese alike, Toriyasu is a must visit for the vibe alone... one that feels uncannily similar to Shinjuku's Piss Alley.
A scratched wooden bar dominates the space, with menu items scrawled vertically in Japanese hiranga down individual dangling brown papers hanging from the bar's top venting.
Sit grillside – smack-dab in the middle of the action – to watch the yakitori master at work.
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The skewers here are comparatively cheaper, and that's partly because the meat quality doesn't compare to others on this list.
But what is lost in the latitude between 'solid' and 'the best grilled meats' is made up for in the fun-loving atmosphere.
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All of the regulars make a showing – Chicken Thigh (RMB12), Chicken Gizzards (RMB10), Chicken Breast (RMB10) and Chicken Meatballs (RMB10) that are noticeably smaller than the oblong-shaped one-hitters we find at most other venues, instead similar in size to a large grape.
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Enoki Mushrooms Wrapped in Bacon (RMB15) are less crispy than we hoped, but the flaky, expertly salted Mackerel (RMB35) overshadows it.
Surprisingly, our two most arbitrary orders, the Potato Salad (RMB22) and the Teriyaki Chicken (RMB38) stood out above the rest.
Dense mashed potatoes laden with dollops of Kewpie mayo form a necessary stomach base for slinging back Highballs (RMB35) and Shochu (RMB25), while the sticky, sweet teriyaki sauce had us dipping everything short of our fingers directly into it.
(Ok, you caught us – we did dip our fingers in it.)
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Toriyasu is just one of many Japanese spots in this area. It sits along a strip of other yakitori joints, some specializing in sushi and seafood, others in hotpot, Japanese BBQ, okinomiyaki, eel rice or cold soba noodles.
Toriyasu, 172 Huichuan Lu, by Changning Lu 汇川路172号, 近长宁路.
404
At 404, the emerald green tufted sofas and lounge chairs fit the jazz music emanating from the speakers, creating a whiskey and cigar bar vibe that seems like a curious choice for a Japanese yakitori spot – a place that usually involves a bustling shotgun bar with smoke-laden layers of controlled chaos composed of speedy skewers and flowing highballs.
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During our first visits to 404, we missed that grit, that ingenuity, that signature shock to the senses – and were left with dishes that hit barely one note. There was no egregious error, just a culmination of small missteps that underwhelmed us.
However, after revisiting a year later, we were pleasantly surprised to see more than 50% new dishes and a tighter menu that made for an improved experience, on both a food and service level. The current menu is divided into yakitori, mains and snacks with an extensive cocktail list.
Inventive snacks began with light and refined Shaved Radish & Pear (RMB18), a dish that still sports surprising nips of dried kombu seaweed – firm like smoky pieces of beef jerky – and then all of a sudden there’s fragrant pear.
It really works.
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Revisited starters like Fried Cauliflower (RMB38), a previously unremarkable bite, now reveal pillowy clouds of florets encased in a shatteringly crisp crust.
Tangy with a slow-burning heat, the syrupy sauce that coats the outside is an excellent balance of spice, sour and sweet.
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Large chunks of Chicken Thigh (RMB15) are speckled with mujiangzi, a spice grown in Guizhou, Sichuan and Yunnan that resembles black pepper, but unfolds into a woody aroma with a slightly floral aftertaste.
When used in excess, the resulting flavor can be off-putting, like a bar of soap, but that deft-handed sprinkle on the skewer is interesting and unlike any flavor combination you’d find elsewhere.
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There's a wide array of chicken parts, grilled fish and steak cuts, plus some charred veggies and noteworthy desserts, all bites that warrant a return visit – a prime example of a venue reinventing itself and living up to its full potential.
Read our first full review here, and our follow up one here.
404, 122 Wulumuqi South Lu, by Yongjia Lu 乌鲁木齐南路122号, 近永嘉路.
We published our original izakaya roundup back in March, 2021. This one has been added to, updated and modified to its current version.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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