So Mezze by Pasha: Turkish 'Tapas' in Shankang Li

By Sophie Steiner, April 5, 2023

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The Place

The newest addition to the Pasha group, So Mezze is located in the former Kesshō coffee shop spot in Shankang Li, sandwiched between Homeslice and Tap House

It offers mezze style Turkish-inspired ‘tapas’ – small plates made for sharing – paired with extremely affordable wine from around the globe. 

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The majority of the menu is light and fresh, with Mediterranean brunch items served all day, as well as dips and other nibbles ideal for picking at with a glass of wine in hand. 

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The front of the house boasts a ‘Mezze Market’ concept, with pre-prepared grab-and-go bites, dips, meats, cheeses and sweets that can be enjoyed both in the restaurant or for takeaway, like a Turkish version of an alimentari market. 

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The venue’s logo, the Evil Eye – or Nazar Buncuk – is also found displayed throughout, an amulet held dear by the Turkish people due to the belief that it protects its holder from bad energies by absorbing them.

And absorbing bad energies is what it does; So Mezze is all about the welcoming, approachable vibes, paired with good food, good drink, and good company.

The Food

Chef Mehmet from Pasha designed the menu at So Mezze – hence many similar dishes found at both venues – with So Mezze focusing more on the starters and all-day brunch, where diners order a handful of dishes, combining complimentary and contrasting flavors from varying plates into one bite.

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Case in point, Chilbir (RMB35) – the Food of the Sultans – sees two poached eggs served over thick garlicky Greek yogurt, drizzled with chili oil. 

Pierce the yolks, letting them dribble into the yogurt, and shmear it all across toasted pita bread or a Simit (RMB15), a Turkish bagel that crisps on the outside – coated in sesame seeds – yet is fluffy on the inside.

Ideal fodder for sopping up any and all dips and yogurts.  

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Avocado Toast (RMB48), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

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Commonly fried up with eggs as a favorite breakfast among Turks, Pastirna (RMB48/50grams) is a 4-6-week air-cured beef seasoned with a paste made from cumin, fenugreek, garlic and hot paprika.

With marbling similar to Italian bresaola, the thicker cuts are velvet-like – almost buttery – with a potent spice finish.

The pastirna is drool-worthy on its own, but when eaten in combination with gooey eggs, yogurt, and fresh-baked bread, it takes it to a whole new level. 

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Turkish for ‘stuffed,’ the Dolma (RMB38) are made from medium grain rice mixed with lentils, herbs and spices, all wrapped in thin grape vine leaves.

A classic enjoyed across the old Ottoman Empire and Middle East.

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Pulling from one of the restaurant partner's mother’s recipe, the Kisir (RMB38) is a shared family meal staple, a cold salad made from bulgur wheat seasoned with parsley, mint, tomato and onion – all drizzled with pomegranate syrup for a sweet and tart aftertaste that pulls diners in for another bite.

We suggest relishing in this grain salad scooped onto the accompanying lettuce and wrapped like a taco, topped with a smattering of homemade Pickles (RMB28), the way it's enjoyed back home in Turkey.

DSC05996.jpgOctopus Salad (RMB45), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Jumping to sweet, the Kaymak (RMB48) is an indulgent homemade goat’s milk-based clotted cream – with a texture similar to thick cream cheese.

Served with fresh honeycomb, dip into it with bread, pita, or a simit bagel... or just go in straight with a spoon – there’s no wrong way to savor some dairy doused in honey.

The exception to the menu’s sharing plate style is in the burgers. Each one is more of a Frankenstein-esque monstrosity than the last – recipes that could only have been thought up by a mad scientist.

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While the Tomahawk Burger (RMB138) is dramatic in cheddar heft (it pools over the edges like cheesy curtains, parting to reveal the main show – 250 grams of sliced tomahawk steak) what stole our attention even more was the Lokum Burger (RMB108)...

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Sliced beef filet is roasted in butter and the world's most indulgent calorie-for-calorie ingredient, bone marrow.

Next, the burger is topped with pastirna – the cured Turkish beef mentioned above – while cheddar cheese, caramelized onion, tomatoes and lettuce round out the mix, on a toasted sesame seed bun. 

There are also a handful of Pasha main dish favorites, like the three-hour slow-cooked Beef Rib (RMB288/500 grams)Grilled Chicken Filet (RMB68), Salmon (RMB98), and a monster Tomahawk Steak (RMB788) that feeds 2-3 people. 

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

And, because the Turks are famed for their desserts, it would only be tempting the Evil Eye’s misfortune to miss out on the stretchy-yet-creamy Turkish Ice Cream (RMB45) – one that warrants its own summer festival in Turkey  available in chocolate, vanilla or pistachio. 

DSC06109.jpgRice Pudding (RMB38), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

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Another must, the Künefe (RMB58) sees a blend of angel’s hair spun kataifi pastry layered with soft, melted cheese, all soaked in sweet syrup, served warm and oh-so comforting.

The Vibe

With seating for 40 inside and another 30 outside, the brightly lit, airy space is inviting – designed with warm wood tones and patterned ceramic leaves in varying shades of teal – or turquoise – a word derived from the French ‘turquois,’ meaning ‘Turkish,’ representing the color of the gemstones so coveted by the Ottoman Empire.

In the evening, plush, heavy Turkish curtains are pulled, creating a more intimate setting, ideal for private conversation coupled with more wine.

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Speaking of more wine, the approachable wine selection is a key pillar of the venue’s concept, with recognizable bottles from France, Italy, Chile and Spain to rarer finds from Turkey, Portugal, Georgia and China, the majority of which go for just RMB150-200 a pop, or just RMB40-55 per glass. The plan is to launch a WeChat mini program for wine bottle delivery as well.

There are also classic cocktails for RMB55 and long drinks for RMB60. 

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

On top of all that, they have weekend DJs starting from 10pm (jamming out disco funk on their top-of-the-line sound system).

Plus, they plan to add an outdoor shots bar in the main courtyard (across from Azul), with dozens of shots options, to get the daytime-into-nighttime party bumping come summer, and breathing a fresh breath of energetic air into Shankang Li. 

So Mezze’s grand opening is slated for April 15, so save the date!

Price: RMB100-200
Good For: Turkish style brunch all day long; affordable wine drinking at all hours; hefty meat consumption
Who’s Going: Pasha fans; Shankang Li dwellers; the Jing’an expat contingency

So Mezze, Shankang Li, 358 Kangding Lu, by Shanxi Bei Lu, 康定路358号, 近陕西北路.


Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.

[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]

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