The Place
After hitting the mark twice in a row with The Nest and The Cannery, the team behind these venues is mixing things up by adding a bakery to their portfolio. Like most openings these days, Rye & Co is located in a mall, and in this case it’s the new Xintiandi Plaza.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Consisting of two separate spaces (a café and a bar), Rye & Co ticks off most of your daily needs. Downstairs expect ‘grains for goodness’ in the form of baked goods, Danish open-faced sandwiches and larger mains such as (not quite) Swedish meatballs, pasta and mussels.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The counterpoint to all this wholesomeness (read: booze) is available on the second floor (informally nicknamed ‘High on Rye’), where lighter eats such as smushi – an intriguing combo of smorrebrod and sushi – will be added to the menu soon.
The Food
One of Denmark’s most beloved national dishes, smorrebrod is the cornerstone of the simple and unpretentious offerings. This open-faced sandwich is made with 70 percent rye or molasses bread with a schmear of smor (butter), followed by tasty toppings and artfully arranged garnishes.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The Gravlax (RMB38) sees a classic combination of salmon, fennel, green apple and horseradish unified by a dollop of strained skyr (Icelandic ‘yogurt’). You also can’t go wrong with Greenland (RMB38), which features plump Icelandic shrimps, briny salmon roe, pickled onion and fresh dill.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Opinions were split on Chef Freddy Raoult’s take on Beef Tartare (RMB42), whereby tiny squares of vibrant red meat is accented with horseradish, watercress and sorrel, then piled on top of a slice of rye with dill mayo. Its clean and bright flavor had several of our dining companions bemoaning the lack of beefiness.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Vegetarians will love the Pumpkin on Toast (RMB48), where a gorgeous slice of sourdough is topped with soft, fresh stracciatella cheese, thin sheets of lightly pickled pumpkin, parsley oil and crunchy pistachio. The Nourish Bowl (RMB58) featuring quinoa, grilled veg, avocado, seeds and yogurt or smoky Aubergine Tartine (RMB48) with lentils, yogurt, mint and coriander will also appeal to the health-conscious crowd.
For larger appetites, all-day meals such as Chairman’s Steak (RMB138), The Nest Fish N Chips (RMB88) and Swedish Meatballs (RMB108) are solid options. Soup (RMB48), Homemade Pasta (RMB68), Risotto (RMB58) and Mussel Pot (RMB98) options all change daily. If you happen to see venison gnocchi on offer, we highly recommend it.
When it comes to sweet treats, the decadent Salted Caramel Brioche (RMB22) and their version of kouign aman that they call a Caramel Butter Roll (RMB16) reign supreme.
Food Verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
The dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows and an abundance of warm wooden tones reaffirms its Nordic identity. Give them a few years, and we expect to see Rye & Co repeated in shopping centers throughout the country just like Wagas.
An entirely more ambient atmosphere awaits those who ascend the spiral staircase. A subdued mix of colors and textures differentiates Rye & Co from The Cannery and The Nest while low-slung chairs and tables mark ‘High on Rye’ as a clear sibling. The piece de resistance is an installation of about 30,000 interwoven mother of pearl-laden shells, which casts gorgeous light upon the entire room.
Time will tell whether people want a lounge in a mall, but a separate entrance allowing you to access the bar after Xintiandi Plaza closes is encouraging. If you like to spend slow days brunching or working remotely, sundowners with a view are just a few steps away.
Vibe Verdict: 1.5/2
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB120-300 per person
Who’s going: local and expat mall rats
Good for: coffee, brunch, bread, cocktails
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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