Apart from the success Daniel An’s Shrine bar, or Mack Ross’ Magnolia Room and Tour, semi-open air complex United Valley’s story so far has been one of failure to launch. This is despite its promise of being a haven for quirky F&B venues, and prime location on Shaanxi and Changle Lu. However, after a recent visit to Ounce, one of the newest places to open there, it seems the vision is coming into focus after all.
Inconspicuous and secret-looking from the outside, Ounce is tucked away on the third floor next to a nail salon. Inside, the cocktail bar feels like it could have existed for years thanks to a fully loaded arsenal of spirits, eclectic curios that wouldn’t look out of place on the set of Braveheart. A small, darkly lit lounge area with what might be the city’s tiniest live music set-up takes up Ounce’s remaining indoor space, while an equally minute roof terrace offers views of the heaving urban sprawl.
Strong drinks seem to be a particular forte at Ounce (pun intended). The standout of the night is the beguilingly bittersweet Black Witch (RMB80), all house-made berry liqueur, Romate Cream Sherry, cassis and wine soaked black currants.
Imbibers who enjoy peaty flavors will find their tolerance pushed to the max with the Smoky Rob Roy (RMB90, Glenmorangie Scotch Whisky, sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters, house spices). It’s rugged enough to rumble even the folk hero to which it owes its name.
Ounce tries its hand at a little flair bartending with the Kuai (RMB85), served in a rather passé-looking Tiki cup and garnished with a halved passion fruit filled with flaming 151 rum. The idea is to pour it out into the crushed ice beneath to extinguish the flames, but cumbersome mint sprigs make it impossible to mix the elements together, resulting in a mouthful of straight rum one sip, and pineapple juice the next.
Nevertheless, all is forgotten when the bartender produces a well-crafted, if pricey, Old Fashioned with Maker’s Mark Bourbon (RMB110), ringing with the rounded flavor of orange oil.
Ounce might not be as showy as the other cocktail neighbors in United Valley, the drinks carry attention to detail and, equally importantly, arrive quickly. Good for dates, small groups, and flying under the radar.
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