With dozens of shows, presentations, talks, performances and parties taking place in each season’s Shanghai Fashion Week, standing out among an increasingly talented crowd of China-based designers is getting harder and harder. Luckily, Labelhood has once again offered a carefully curated list of presentations, all happening inside an abandoned warehouse right next to the Suzhou Creek. Here are some of the most memorable ones that caught our eye for the Autumn/Winter 2017 season.
Almost a complete opposite to last season’s mindboggling and gothic presentation inside that old church at the Rockbund, Angel Chen opted to partner up with quirky French singer Petite Meller for a cheerful live concert for her AW17 presentation. The catchy hits from the singer’s 2016 album Lil Empire reminds one of something along the lines of Carly Rae Jepsen’s ‘Call Me Maybe’ or the early days of The Cardigans (‘Lovefool’).
With big bold colors of Chen’s AW17 collections (primarily bright red, yellow, pink, blue) lighting up the stage, the singer, her backup dancers, musicians and DJs bounced around throughout the show wearing the Central Saint Martins graduate’s latest work, which are whimsical and over the top (in the cutest way). Along with the cheery crowd and the bubblegum pop courtesy of Petite Meller, the room basically exploded in rainbow colors all night long.
Designers Fiona Lau and Kain Picken stay true to their brand statement in their AW17 collection and continues to reimagine items that one would feel comfortable wearing in contemporary home environment and presenting them out on the streets (and on runways too). There are coats and capes that remind one of a blanket, dresses that resemble an apron, all colored in mainly neutral solid colors with a dose of bold magenta, maroon or bright orange strategically placed here and there as garnish to spice things up.
Museum of Friendship
Titled ‘Next Passport,’ the AW17 collection of Museum of Friendship signifies the next stage of life and upcoming journeys in designer Momo Wang’s life and career. While the presentation retained some elements of Wang’s previous shows – such as having bubbly female models dance playfully on the ‘runway’ instead of doing a typical walk – followers of MOF’s work would immediately notice a difference in Wang’s choice of darker, bolder colors this season. MOF’s signature orange color has turned to a much sharper tone, accompanying black and dark blue in dresses, outdoor jackets in different looks, completed with prints of paper airplanes and hot air balloons on them as well as in different accessories.
There’s a lot to love about the WMWM’s AW17 collection and presentation. London College of Fashion alumnus Mushroom Song, who launched her label in in 2014, continues with her signature minimalistic style and uses only white, black and grey in the entire collection.
Androgynous-looking models dressed in clothing with loose and exaggerated shapes and silhouettes were seen walking up and down in seemingly random pacing and direction in a warehouse space littered with crumpled computer paper. Among the calmness of the ambiance, there was a hidden sense of distress and chaos. Just before the end of the presentation, the models approached the audience and sat right among us. After a couple of minutes of small talk, they stood back up on cue and returned backstage. How cool is that?