Yet another high-end Italian spot has come to the Bund, this time nesting on the top of building number six. Set in an alcove with peaked roofs, deCanto has taken up residence in the failed members-only club Prive and maintains the sober motif of gray walls, maroon furniture and dark wood. However, now the spot is owned by a rich Wenzhou native who spent most of his time in the land of the boot, and the kitchen turns out nice, home-style food in a sleek interior.
Head Chef Catia Busa, formerly in charge of the menu at the Briccocafe outlets, kicks her cooking up a notch and proves her perspicacity in balancing a plate. A fresh, broiled piece of red snapper (RMB168) is enlivened by a vivid swipe of fava bean puree, a crisp medallion of pressed pancetta and a bright salad of tomatoes and arugula; this perfect summer dish is pleasing to the eye and palate. Handmade ravioli filled with ricotta and beetroot are pretty in pink, dressed with a golden butter sage sauce (RMB98) for subtle vegetarian pleasure.
Not every garnish and flourish is successful. Tuna tartare (RMB58) sees the fish bludgeoned with too many strong flavors: mango, orange juice, ginger and fennel flowers detract from the main event and conflict with each other. Meat eaters will be entranced by the wagyu beef tenderloin (RMB298), served over earthy organic barley risotto, but the steak doesn’t really need the pan-fried foie gras on top; you lose the unctuous richness of the liver while the beef gains little.
In the evenings, we imagine the space will be a sexy place to grab a bite to eat if you’re in the area and can snag a spot on their balcony for a drink and bite to share. Mussels (RMB128), for instance, are sweet and fresh. Served in a massive pot, you’ll eat to the bottom and then find yourself using pieces of bread to soak up the fragrant olive oil pooling in the bottom.
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