Academic and scientist Louise Fresco once said about food: “It's not about nutrients and calories. It's about sharing. It's about honesty. It's about identity.”
This seems to be the most fitting quote to describe Brotzeit’s re-branding as Haxnbauer, an authentic German restaurant specializing in schweinshaxe. Known to English speakers as pork knuckle, it is one of the most recognized recipes in German cuisine; a heritage carefully passed from generation to generation in kitchens across the country.
Haxnbauer’s version arrives at the table after having been marinated for 16 hours and cooked for a further 72 hours to ensure a crispy yet tender texture. Only the finest meat is selected for the process, of which many steps remain a well-kept secret.
You’re going to want to round up some friends who love meat for this wood-accented hangout, even if it’s just so you can tuck into the feast platter (RMB758), which includes enough Haxnbauer pork knuckle, sausages and a roasted lamb shank for five people! You can order the schweinshaxe separately as well for RMB218.
Another traditional eat is the kartoffelsalat (RMB28), aka potato salad – and yes, the menu does provide plenty of opportunity to hone your German culinary lingo. This staple dish is the perfect appetizer, combining sour and savory notes in a smooth, creamy texture. Have it with a side of sauerkraut (RMB28); the crunchy pickled cabbage is light, fresh and zesty.
You wouldn’t leave Germany without trying its signature desserts, would you? We couldn’t. Emperor’s cake (RMB88) caught our attention with its powerful name and seduced our palate with the deep flavors of rum and raisin. Complete with homemade apple sauce and a touch of cinnamon, the sweet did not remain on the table long, despite the rather big portion.
German beer needs no special introduction, and Haxnbauer has lots of choices stocked in its carefully planned-out bar. If you are already on a first-name basis with most of the popular beer brands, go for a taste of something slightly different. Affensaft (RMB 0.3/liter) is a refreshing and flavorful fruit and beer mix.
While generally restaurant rebranding doesn't signal much more than poor marketing the first time around, Haxnbauer is making a clear statement with its name change: it’s going back to its roots with traditional German cuisine, signature dishes polished by generations of professionals and home cooks, and generous servings. Changes like that we are happy to welcome.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: Meat eaters, pork connoisseurs, beer enthusiasts
Good for: Schweinshaxe, kartoffelsalat, other unpronounceable German dishes
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