At award-winning chef Austin Hu's latest endeavor Heritage by Madison the name gives away the concept. The titular heritage in question is the chef’s own reflection on his time spent in China, the US and Japan. Over the past 10 years, we’ve witnessed flashes of Hu’s character in his food, from boldly using locally sourced ingredients for Western fare at the original Madison on Dongping Lu to sneaking kimchi into monstrous grilled cheeses at Madison Kitchen. In his latest endeavor, Hu moves along similar lines with a bit more finesse and smaller plates.
With Heritage, multiple influences shine through earnest preparation without compromising the source material. Think duck spaghetti alla chittara that suggests a merger of al dente zha jiang mian with duck ragu laden in gloriously stretchy stracciatella or Chongqing hot chicken with squiggly ribbons of avocado and a bit of pickled onion that briefly distract from the delicious burn.
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