People tend to get a bit irrational on the subject of pho, the rice noodle soup that is one of the world’s great comfort foods. Fortunately, options abound for pho-natics in Guangzhou to take sides over which eatery dishes up their favorite. We sought out two new Tianhe-based locations to compete in this month’s pho-off, the result of which will surely bowl you over.
Pho Vietnamese Cuisine and Bar
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One of the first things you notice at Pho, a small outdoor dining spot on Xingsheng Lu, is the high chopstick-to-fork ratio among the diners. That’s an excellent omen that everyone seems comfortably familiar with the task at hand.
Pho isn’t your quintessential date night venue or a place to take a client you want to impress. But really, there is no need to sweat the aesthetic details here; this is hearty, home-cooked Vietnamese fare, spun simply and spun well. The owner is Hanoi-born Tran, who – in spanking good Mandarin and a smattering of English – will help you order an aromatic, authentic storm of everything from fresh seafood to marinated red meats, cooked by a team of native chefs.
For starters, there are crunchy spring rolls (RMB66) and a variety of do-it-yourself rice paper rolls. Filled with shrimp (RMB69) or lemongrass-infused pork (RMB66), it’s well paired with a light fish, lime and chili dipping sauce. The house specialty – a steaming bowl of beef pho (RMB43) with luscious bits of tripe, tendons and other beefy extras, infused with vibrant helpings of basil, spring onions and mint and perked up by DIY additions of bean sprouts, cilantro and lime – is terrifically satisfying. What sets it apart from others is the quality of the broth. It’s almost clear, not murky, and imparted with complex flavors developed through 12 hours of simmering. There are also variations with chicken (RMB33), and pork and oxtail.
Set meals are fabulously priced for the location. Rice with roasted lemongrass pork chop (RMB30) comes nicely accented with a fried egg on top. Cold drinks are noteworthy too, such as the highly recommended lemon soda (RMB28) and passion fruit juice (RMB36), which are blended well enough to put Starbucks to shame.
At the humble Pho, nothing stands up to the eponymous bowl, but with so much more deliciousness on offer, it’s a wonder the place doesn’t boast a line as long as its rice noodles.
Price: Approx. RMB70
Who’s going: Pho-natics, exotic palates
Good for: DIY Vietnamese, blended beverages
// Listing.
Indochine
Indochine sings to a blue-collar crowd craving reasonably priced Vietnamese-crossover spins. For those familiar with the name – renowned for being a Singapore-based, world-class fine-dining restaurant group – this is far from it. In fact, you might want to salute the chap with the smarts to register this particularly posh moniker in China, and at the same time, lower your expectations for the casual rip-off that this diner legally isn’t.
With four across the city and plenty more planned for the mainland, this obscurely situated branch is dressed to resemble the simplicity of Vietnam: a bright green and white palette, straw hats on the walls, wood and bamboo accents and a cafeteria-style layout.
The signature pho dac biet (RMB28/38) – thinly sliced rare beef, beef brisket, tendons and meatballs – is served in a slightly brownish broth with runs of oil, bouillon and MSG, as well as a generous toss of raw red onions and garnishing. It’s satisfactory, but fails to translate into anything truly filling. Pho Thai (RMB28/38) is slightly more palatable, with a lemony, reddish-tinged tom yum-style clear broth. The garlic noodles (RMB18/28), not a dish from the classic repertoire of Vietnamese victuals, is butter-rich and so garlicky that it’s almost impossible to swallow.
Gio cuon (RMB15) – freshly made pork and shrimp spring rolls (RMB15) – is far too noodle-heavy, while the goi ga (RMB12), an Asian chicken salad, is withered coleslaw ingredients in a drowning blanket of sweet mayonnaise. Diners are better off going for the rice dishes: the rice with grilled pork and fried egg roll is adequate and will sate the famished for a measly RMB38.
All in all, Indochine is passable; just don’t expect a flood of memories of homegrown street food sold along the winding streets of old Hanoi.
Price: Approx. RMB40
Who’s going: Frugal passersby, office cliques
Good for: Dishes soaked in MSG, inexpensive lunch
// Listing.
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