If you go to Bondi expecting exotic Aussie prairie eats that someone like Crocodile Dundee would have relished, you’re going to be a bit disappointed, mate. Except for some Australian-themed paraphernalia like surfboards and the Sydney Opera House graffiti on the wall, this restaurant is about as ‘down under’ as McDonald’s is Irish. Then again, Australian food is largely derived from its waves of immigration. The choice bits of world cuisines were cherry picked, then polished with a distinctive patina and served up in a cafe culture that is largely a byproduct of stunning beaches and blonde babes.
The five Bondi founders say they chose the Aussie theme because the Antipodean people and culture are fun loving, gregarious and casual. And that is exactly what the spirit of their restaurant epitomizes; it exudes the kind of friendliness, relaxed atmosphere and soul that is quintessentially laid-back and inviting.
Tucked above the main drag of Xingsheng Lu on the third floor, Bondi has a slightly industrial facade with faux brick and grey walls. Inside awaits an inviting bar made from an old, dissected shipping container, a private cigar lounge complete with humidor, two private rooms for casual get-togethers and an impressive sense of intimacy in what should be a relatively austere space. The venue is designed for lively socializing, with booths running through and around, an elevated area and bar tables lining the exterior. The add-ons are perhaps our favorite part: a large projector for motion games or teenybopper music and a portable beer pong table give Bondi a sense of mischievousness.
This pseudo-journey to Australia is extremely delicious, thanks to a menu that is constantly being enhanced by a former hotel chef. The marquee starter is the addictive, calorific, outback-inspired blooming onion (RMB38), its petals hand carved and dipped in three types of flour to create a batter that’s crunchy and golden like the Australian sun. The cream of tomato with black caviar (RMB45) is silk on the lips; rich and tangy, with hints of basil. A side of large, garlic button mushrooms (RMB45), served with a generous garnish of herbs, is a winner too.
For mains, the beer can chicken (RMB108) is a visual treat. Perched innocently on a half can of Bud, the whole bird – after being massaged with herbs and beer – is steamed and then roasted. It is subsequently flambeed on the table when served. Once cut up, the soft, juicy meat peels right off the bone, ideal to dip in the homemade Nando’s-inspired peri-peri sauce.
The flame-grilled lamb ribs (RMB255) come as a whole rack, succulent and marinated to perfection with mint and garlic, and are served with homemade beef gravy. There are future plans for Sunday brunch and more seafood options such as oysters, mussels and fish.
Those who love imported grog will be pleased with the drink menu. For beers (RMB34-38), choose from Pure Blonde, Victoria Bitter, Crown and Coopers, or sip Australian wines like Penfolds and Terrel Estate.
It’s the tucker, the spirit and the bilingual staff and service that sees Bondi full of regulars every night, placing it firmly at the top of our list of places to revisit. Now all that’s missing are the sound of peeling waves and white sand running though your fingers. Oh, and some pavlova.
Price: Approx RMB180 per person
Who’s going: Sun-kissed babes, wannabe Aussies
Good for: Casual socializing, beer-battered fare, drinking outback style
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