The Place
Clear your schedules, people. Celebrity Turkish butcher and chef Kemal Ceylan has skipped Shenzhen and descended upon Guangzhou to open Doors. Not your doors, of course, but his: a cross between a steakhouse, Turkish/Mediterranean brasserie and chill out lounge.
Ceylan cuts a dapper figure. Those who have met the man will know him as a foodie who gives both fine cuts of meat and seafood the respect they deserve. Oh, and let’s not forget his dazzling, precise knife work that has diners returning time and again for some unadulterated, live-action food porn. Accented by bright sunflowers, homey wooden floors and ceilings, gleaming copper-tone tableware and well lit walls with pinhole windows for added effect, this inviting Xingsheng Lu gastro-lounge comes with a caveat: love thy meat and seafood, or else.
The Food
Doors is all about flair and theater; the result garners a boatload of oohs, aahs and WeChat likes, and quite rightfully so. Our selection of three salads – the Turkish, grilled marinated eggplant, and kidney bean – are not just a visual treat, but off-the-hook in terms of taste, aftertaste and presentation. Priced between RMB48-65, they’re decent value for money, too.
Dips, pides, pastas and other dishes feature as well, but save space for an order of their jumbo shrimp (RMB68/piece), topped generously with an addictive butter garlic paste. It’s a perfect warm-up for the carnivorous pleasures to come and makes for picture-worthy, shell-cracking, butter-dripping-down-the-side-of-the-mouth moments. And if you simply must stay in seafood mode, try their grilled salmon (RMB58/serving) or tuna (RMB38); both are well cooked and break down soon as they hit your palate.
To complement the red wine, cocktails, liquors and raki, order red and white meat dishes in portions so that you get to try the whole lot: there are several varieties of beef, lamb and chicken that fit the bill. The lamb shish kebab (RMB106) melts with meaty juices, and Ceylan jumps in expertly, coming around to personally stuff bits of flavorful meat into crispy homemade pockets of lavash flatbread (RMB20). It melts so naturally on the tongue and makes for such fulfilling bites that it leaves you asking the obvious: "What else can I order?"
In another serving of lamb, brought over for tableside carving, Ceylan slices up the rack (RMB288) in precise line before giving it a few smacks with his knife, sending the meat toppling in a row like dominoes. He points to the bone as you pick up a piece, encouraging you to gnaw off the top bits by the bone for intense flavor. It’s lush, and chances are you’ll be licking your lips for more once done.
The beef medleys are perhaps what defines the Doors experience. A wooden serving board appears at our table, with slabs of premium entrecote, still blue. Don’t fret; this is all part of the show. Another platter appears seconds later, this time with a naked cow’s calf.
Known as the Ottoman steak (RMB218), it’s not for the faint-of-heart (or vegetarians!), but behold the theatrics: a small jug of clarified liquid butter and bone marrow is poured over the calf, and black pepper and sea salt is added to the sizzling mix. Portions are slapped on the plate, and the hot liquid immediately browns the beef. Throw it on some warm lavash, and let it soak it up the juices. The result is a rich, meaty, slightly salty, orgasm-in-your-mouth experience.
To end the extra-ness of it all, order a cup of their Turkish coffee (RMB20). It’s dark and indulgent, with a powdery residue that is reminiscent of street cafes in Istanbul. Accompany it with a round of shisha (RMB80-180), and you’ll end the meal on a high.
The Vibe
Here, comfortable eating is a culture, and it may cost you a buck or two. With branches set to open soon in New York, London and Dubai, Doors hits the mark for serving up what it does best: a culinary extravaganza like no other.
Who’s going: super extra taste lovers, those who got dough and like to eat it too
Good for: meat flamboyance, sensual seafood, Turkish delights
Price: RMB350
Daily, 11am-1.30am (last order at 11.30pm); see listing for Doors.
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