Crossing the road from a major F&B-infested street like Xingsheng Lu to enter a relatively quiet, barely occupied mall may seem absurd to most. After all, who eats in a shopping center when you’ve got a fashionable thoroughfare erupting with restaurants and bars more furiously than Vesuvius in AD 79? But it appears that the nouveau riche and ravenous crowds lining up outside The Eating Table at GT Land’s Winter plaza beg to differ..jpg)
Upon first glance, the entrance isn’t large, giving little away about the sheer magnitude that awaits. Saunter in to find displays of delectable items resembling those in an imported grocery store, a looming masterpiece of a mixology space, exquisite earthy elements built into the walls, and bronze pans, earthen tableware and empty wine bottles convening delicately on open shelves.
During the day, natural lighting pours in from the glass-enclosed barriers overlooking the likes of the IFC to create an ambiance that puts one at ease. At nightfall, goblet-shaped spotlights come to life, glistening over the chic wooden tables and perfectly paired chairs to add to the sheer size.
With seats for more than 200 diners to explore their buzzing gastronomy at a less frenetic pace, The Eating Table’s warm, alluring design enlivens the senses. The question is, does the food do the same?
Fortunately for its owner, who spent several years in Melbourne, the food is pleasing and delivers to both the local and foreign palate. Offering a tapas-style menu for brunch, lunch and dinner, the menu has a wide range of appetizers, soups, pastas and both meaty and marine-filled mains. Pan-fried prawns in black garlic (a rare, highly sought-after ingredient) come in a jar of rich butter sauce (RMB45). Homemade spinach and ricotta gnocchi (RMB48) are soft and springy, and sit in a creamy spinach-based sauce, whilst the beef onion soup with homemade cheese (RMB35) has a textural kick – the saltiness and lightness of the soup blends perfectly with the soft cheese.
Paella (RMB60/one person, RMB128/three) is cooked al dente, a blanket of fresh seafood covering the top. For mains, try the signature chicken (RMB168); the protein is served whole and marinated in herbs for hours, before being grilled in a hot oven. Also of note are the lamb chops (RMB168) and rib-eye steak (RMB168), both appetizing and worth an order.
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Drinks run the gamut, from classic to specialty cocktails, to smoothies, teas and signature coffees such as the cappuccino brulee (RMB28), a hard surface of burnt toffee under a perfect brew. To match, try the creamy tiramisu (RMB28) for a sweet, decadent finale to a satisfying meal.
Price: RMB150
Who’s going: Mod-food enthusiasts
Good for: 180-degree views; earthy, quality fare
// For address, see listing.
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