Good ol’ New York-style pizza. Our city has somehow carried on without it for so long, distracted by the latest Italian version of the pie or, worse yet, convenient posers like Pizza Hut. Heck, we even forgot what quality pizza should taste like – until now.
Mill House Pizza isn’t exactly what you’d find in Little Italy, and the owners (thankfully) don’t pronounce their ‘O’s with that classic Long Island drawl. The founders, an Armenian family who have worked in Guangzhou’s import-export sector for years, aren’t even familiar with the restaurant industry. It all began when their son tried a slice of the Big Apple’s claim to fame in Hong Kong and fell in love with its signature hand-tossed thin crust, convincing his parents to open an eatery on the mainland. So far, so good, especially considering Mill House is in the heart of Liwan District, far from traditional Western food streets.
The shop rolls out homemade dough in a range of sizes, from small (12 inches) to the New York giant (24 inches) – the largest sold in Guangzhou. They even offer a classic 50/50 deal, where indecisive patrons can select two sets of toppings on one pie (price based on the more expensive side). Currently, pizzas come in a variety of flavors with set combinations of toppings, but we’re told customizable pies will be available in the near future.
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We sampled the cocktail pizza (RMB24-168), a meat-free blend of green and red bell pepper, olives, mushrooms and a mix of imported cheeses. Bear in mind that NY style means no frills – there’s no sauteed spinach or caramelized onions here, and that’s how it should be. Expect a satiating bite of crisp without any greasy residue, but don’t overestimate the size of your stomach. These are far from modest portions.
Sold to go by the slice in proper NY fashion, Mill House welcomes one and all to dine in their tiny shop, which is aglow in yellow. Take-out boxes are stacked to the ceiling, a subtle but key detail to help transport guests from the daze of rowdy Chinese streets to the quiet boroughs of America’s finer state.
As much as the flavors hit home, however, we weren’t as enthralled by the other menu selections, especially the salads (RMB33-35). For now, Mill House does two things right: pizza and dessert. Oh, and the innovative pizza fries. Try their fabulous eclairs (RMB15), ponchiks (RMB13) or unique Eastern European pastries (RMB9), all baked on site. Semisweet balls of cake-like filling with a hint of cinnamon and coconut, these unnamed wonders will take you to cloud nine and back again. And did we mention there’s delivery all the way to Ikea?
It may nawt be New Yawrk, but this pizza joint sure beats anawther day of pawrk.
Price: Approx. RMB60
Who’s going: Manhattanites with appetites
Good for: HUGE takeaway slices, hand-tossed crispy crust
// For address, see listing.
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