Skewers and alcohol is a combination that has been charming Beijingren since the invention of skewers and alcohol, which, come to think of it, were probably some of the first things ever invented. Really, meat + sticks + fire – it must have been a Neolithic Era invention. And that’s why Nathan, who’s the brains and knives behind new Beixinqiao chuan’r restaurant White Tiger Village, has a daunting task. It’s easy to be impressed by some, say, champagne-reduction foie-gras superfood bullshit. It’s harder to impress someone with chuan’r.
And yet, White Tiger Village does just that. The lamb skewers are lightly seasoned and juicy without being oily. They’re savory, like any proper Dongbei food should be, but not drowning in salt. We like to think this is because the base ingredients used don’t require smothering, in line with Nathan’s simple, yet laudable philosophy: “I just make sure the produce is good.”
We were initially skeptical of a high-end reimagining of a street food – don’t make our comfort food less comfortable! – but at RMB6 a stick, White Tiger is hardly white tablecloth. Instead, we sit in an open kitchen, chatting with the cooks as they grill, chop and fry. Design aesthetics exude comfort over stiffness – lemon yellow accents, Plastered 8 wall art.
The menu, like everything else, is simple, yet well curated. There are only a couple dishes under each category: skewers, salad, stew, and then on the other side, alcohol. This, friends, is the icing on the cake. Jing-A beer is on tap (RMB40), and Nathan offers a select few varieties of French and Chilean wine, his personal favorites, at accessible prices (starting at RMB30 for a glass).
All in all, it’s high-quality dining, just for the people. And that’s pretty damn cool.
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