Most branches maintain simple decorations, with black-and-white photos of traditional houses, river towns in the south, and strings of dried red chilis and garlic hanging on the wall. So too is their menu: old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned tongues, too.
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