The Place
With the opening of OCT Loft’s new A1 building, expect more bustle in that cultivated, art-forward area. Magpie, tucked inside A5 in tones of brass, wood and deep cerulean blue, will soon be reservation-only as increasingly sophisticated diners flock to its smart northern cuisine.
Image via Magpie
The Food
Chef-owner Cadence hails from Manchuria, informing both the menu and the name. In the kitchens of Europe, he found his homeland’s bird of good fortune turned a term of insult. It’s now a point of pride to reclaim a “magpie culture” that roams free between cuisine of Europe and the far-ranging nomads of China’s north.
Thus the summer menu finds a lamb Wellington (market rate), Scotch egg (RMB40), ragut of game meat (RMB75), tartare of horse (RMB70) and so much more protein. The veggies are also impressive: “some tomatoes” (RMB60) piled in a basil-rich olive oil, with a confident smear of burrata on the bowlside; and red rice (RMB60), a rich warm porridge with carrot butter and chunky beetroot purée.
Image via Magpie
Sweetbreads (RMB60) are delectable, deep fried pillows under black pepper and a flavorful tumble of olive tapenade. Dollops of sweet-floral hibiscus gel are overpowered, but the bread from Magpie’s bakery proves an ideal vehicle.
The Vibe
Expect an engaging staff that’s pleasantly forward with recommendations and encouragement – along with a commitment to replace (at no cost) what diners don’t enjoy. The same is true for drinks (all RMB85) kept funky and fresh by barmaster Eric, a six-year Coco Park veteran who reaches to the kitchen for ingredients like roasted eggplant drippings and octopus essence. They’ll flow till 2am most nights, alongside a late night snack menu and chill playlist.
Image via Magpie
With casual fine dining that makes the best of local ingredients and far-flung technique, this nest of magpie cuisine is already a gem within the OCT Loft scene. We recommend a reservation.
Price: RMB200-400
Who’s going: OCT-Loft visitors, venturesome diners
Good for: creative fusion fare, seasonal surprises
Nearest metro: Qiaocheng East (Exit A), 18 minutes
See listing for Magpie.
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