Over just a few months Eager earned a reputation for high-speed servings of quality salad, pasta and steak, with prices that neatly fit the spending power of Futian CBD’s white-collar workers.
Wisely located at the foot of the INTOWN office complex, the establishment’s open seating and rectangular interior means it takes just a glance to know whether you’ll find space inside or be dining in the smoker-friendly outdoor area.
Fast service is a cornerstone of Eager’s model, but it also means a 5 percent service charge. After paying at the counter, diners receive a beeper which instructs the fleet-footed staff where to set down the food, which is mostly Italian cuisine with a few astute tweaks to fit local preferences.
The creamy, lightly cheesy risotto (RMB58) is one of the most popular lunches, though it is on the soft side – one of the aforementioned changes for the Chinese market.
Tartine’s are served on four slices of rye bread made by Shekou-based Thomas’ Bakery, with the RMB48 tuna version a flavorful mix of pepper onion and olive. The RMB48 guacamole version is less successful; it is so plain the rye bread’s taste is left to stand on its own.
The avocado orange shake (RMB35) is not overly sweet, making it a good meal-time beverage and not a guilty desert. Likewise, the apple cucumber mint ice tea (RMB30) isn’t the saccharine mix on show at some of the city’s other ‘healthy’ restaurants.
Perhaps best left for the evening rush, the small black mussels with parsley and lemon have a slight salty tang. We’re told they are imported from France, hence the RMB128 price tag per bowl, making it a side best shared among friends who are also sharing the bill.
Although Eager focuses on teas and juices, it does serve simple cocktails for RMB55 and beers for RMB35, meaning the Firestone Easy Jack IPA is especially reasonably priced for a CBD establishment.
Eager’s slick service, reasonable prices and quality dishes have quickly attracted loyal customers, but with the recent departure of a key culinary talent, it remains to be seen if the momentum can be maintained.
Price: RMB60
Who’s going: white collars, super monkey gym members
Good for: fast and affordable Italian
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