The Drinks. Rager Pie’s coffee selection varies depending on which beans are in season and available for import. When we visit, this includes Kenya Kirinyaga single-origin light roast espresso followed by an Indonesian Mendling Blue Batak dark roast shot. Both varieties are imported by Coffee Gospel Roasters in Shanghai, where Rager’s barista Emilie learnt the art and science of coffee.
Tasting Notes. The jet-black Kenyan Kirinyaga has that rusty orange crema (foam head) that we usually associate with intense bitterness. Not so. “It’s really more of a sour flavor,” Emilie tells us. “It’s all personal – different palates will be reminded of different flavors.” It’s quite complex – one moment we think we’re getting a hint of grapefruit before an earthy coffee flavor bullies its way back in. The Mendling Blue Batak has a richer, roasted bean flavor, and is drip filtered through a mad professor glass contraption. “This variety is more balanced, with a nutty flavor. Although lighter than the Kenyan Kirinyaga, it actually has a stronger flavor.”
The Barista. If brewing jargon (and high prices) puts you off artisan coffee, then Rager is a good option. Emilie is meticulous (beans are weighed on scales, water temperatures are checked) but Rager doesn’t take itself too seriously: “True, like many people in China my first cup of coffee was a Starbucks Americano, but since training at Coffee Gospel I’ve developed a love for the amazing breadth and versatility of coffee. I love experimenting and letting other people try my creations. When [partner and Rager chef] Wilson opened up the store I knew we had to have coffee to go with it.” Despite the odd devil motif and 90s grunge track playing, rage seems to be the furthest thing from the relaxed Emilie’s mind – until we suggest putting sugar in the espresso that is.
Rager Pie, see listings for address and opening hours
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