Think Beijing isn’t a hotbed of style? Think again. The city might not have the breadth of London’s sartorial culture, or the on-trend hipster vibe of New York, but, increasingly, it’s showing a fashion edginess hard to find anywhere else.
In July, we brought you Beijing’s best-dressed women for summer 2015. Now we’ve turned to the men. Whether it’s a punk rock musician with skinny jeans and tattoos, or Don Draper-esque personages sporting the very best tailor made suit, these guys know how to work it Beijing-style.
Julien Tang (pictured above)
Video Producer, Filmmaker, Musician and Entrepreneur
— Where did you get this suit?
I bought the material at a fabric shop in Chaowai back in 2012, then went to the now-defunct Yashow to have it made. It was supposed to be for performing on stage with my band, You're Not Invited. I still remember the incredulous face of the Yashow tailors – they couldn't believe I was actually asking them to make me a three-piece suit out of plastic. One of them offered to take up the job, and here we are. Pretty neat, no?
— What is style for you?
An attitude, more than anything else. We’re all wearing costumes of some sort. Some people just like to take it further than others, and that makes them stand out.
— You grew up in France. What brought you to Beijing?
Many reasons – a girl, but also the desire to just experience something new. I moved here from Paris in 2008, at a time when I wanted to break from the past and see what new challenges and risks I could take. China has proved the perfect place to do that. I've organized exhibitions, run a magazine, put on film festivals. It’s been a constant learning curve.
— How do you think Beijing influences your approach to art and life?
Beijing is pretty tough, and it definitely made me tougher too. I like to think of it as a filthy drug: it’s bad for your health, your behavior, your almost everything – yet it's addictive. Every time you are away from it you become aware you don’t really want to go back. The moment you do, though, all you can think is, “I want more.”
— If Beijing were a film, which one would it be?
The one I'm writing now. I can't say much except that it's about young people, slightly on the crazy side. Partly musical. Weird. Just like Beijing.
Justin Kwan
Founder of Principle M
— What are you wearing today?
The jacket is from Italian brand Drapers, and it’s a wool, silk and linen blend. The shirt is a linen cotton blend I’ve had made-to-measure by my designers, and the tie is a vintage piece from Italy I found on Taobao. The trousers are Irish linen, also Principle M. The shoes are Meermin loafers. — What's Principle M?
A made-to-measure clothing brand here in Beijing. We do tailored separates, but also a lot of styling and consulting for guys who want to improve their image, or work on their style cred. Hence why I have to be pretty put together myself on a day-to-day basis.
— What's hot, suit-wise, for the coming Beijing winter?
Neutral colors and earthy hues – quite the opposite of hot! I feel like things are cooling down a bit in general – just look at the yuan devaluation and the Chinese economy. Men's sartorial choices seem to be following the market.
— How would you describe your style?
A mix of function and sartorial class. I usually always wear one tailored piece – whether it’s a vest, a jacket or trousers – but I work around what I am doing too.
— Give us a style tip for the gents.
Mind your shoes. They can make or break an outfit.
— Does Beijing influence your wardrobe at all?
Absolutely. Beijing is pretty rough around the edges, so my clothes have to adapt to it. Jeans and boots do that very well, but also a monochromatic palette, to reflect the city’s grayness.
— What would you be never caught wearing?
Quite a few things actually. Tank tops are a big no. So are baggy, low-cut trousers – no man should wear a pair past age 14. And don't get me started on white socks…
— The perfect Beijing suit would be..?
For a formal occasion, a sturdy English cloth, in charcoal, with built-up shoulders and chest to give it more of a hard feeling. If you're mixing it up, maybe a softer jacket with jeans. More relaxed. Two opposite ends of the spectrum, but that’s Beijing, isn’t it?
Marlon Ma
Freelance PR Consultant
— Your style in three words.
Classic, elegant, fun. I don’t care, really. I wear what I like and what I think works for me. Style is about owning whatever you’re going out in. It’s all about being confident – and not worrying about what other people think.
— Guide us through your outfit.
The jacket and vest are from my tailor, Li Na – I have been using him for three years, so he knows what I like – while the tie and pocket square are from Banana Republic. The sunglasses are your photographer’s, but I'm borrowing them for the shoot! They fit me quite well, don’t you think?
— Is this your signature look?
Pretty much. I love wearing three pieces – vest, shirt and trousers – but mixing different patterns or elements. I like contrast, turning classic menswear attire into something a little edgier.
— What do you like about Beijing?
It's a city with a soul. It’s hippy and full of people that work non-profit or do things just for fun. That’s quite difficult to find, particularly in China. Plus people wear all different kinds of shit, which makes it pretty interesting.
— Sanlitun or Gulou?
Definitely Sanlitun.
— What would be your perfect Beijing day?
The perfect day would be a Saturday, just after a huge rainstorm. There’s no pollution at all, it’s clear blue sky and I don't have a hangover. I’d go for brunch at Nuo Hotel or the Westin, then for a manicure with some girl friends. After that, I’d have a date, maybe at Cantina Agave because they’re one of my clients. The night would then continue at First Floor, Migas and Hush. If I’m still standing at the end of all that, I’d have to wrap things up and start the next day at The Den, for breakfast.
Howie Lee
DJ and Electronic Music Artist
— Tell us about your style, both on a music and personal level.
Music-wise, I dig Eastern elements and old traditional stuff quite a lot. I like to mix that into contemporary tracks. My personal style is just simple. Gold chain – though not hip-hop heavy gold chains! – white or black tees, a cap. I’m lazy, and that’s reflected in the way I dress.
— What are you wearing today?
Black tee and shorts, Nike shoes, some glasses I bought in Korea and a Breton Cire hat. The gold chain is from my mum.
— What led you to become a DJ?
I was playing in a rock band five or six years back, and we started experimenting with other music genres. I discovered dance and electronic music that way, and decided it was more like what I wanted to do.
— Where do you play in Beijing?
Dada, in Gulou, mostly. I still DJ but I'm currently working on my own album and live performances.
— Is Beijing a good place to be a DJ?
People don’t really see DJs as performers here yet, which is kind of frustrating. We help bring all these tracks and beats you wouldn’t hear otherwise, but the public doesn’t consider us real artists.
— Does Beijing inspire you?
Oh yes. Beijing looks like this mad, futuristic place. A shitty reality we escape from in our man-made environments, our apartments with air purifiers and all that. This weird futuristic aspect is definitely in my music too.
Sai Li
Lead Singer of Steely Hearts
— For those who don’t know: What’s Steely Hearts?
A dance-punk Beijing band I started with guitarist Wang Yue about nine years ago. We do a mix of garage rock and electronic.
— Do you follow a specific way of dressing?
I like to look like my favorite artists – Iggy Pop for instance – and follow their fashion code.
— Is that what you’ve done with this outfit?
More or less. This is what I normally wear, or when I perform. My friend, who works for a music company, designed the shirt. The hat is a gift from another friend, who also made it for me. The rings are also from a friend – he got them in Singapore. The shoes are from a British brand called Underground, and yes, they’re also a present from another lovely friend. I know a few people.
— How does Beijing influence your artistic process?
I was born and raised here. The city is a cradle of different styles – and I take inspiration from all of them. Punk and rock are definitely a big influence on my music though.
— If Beijing were a Steely Heart song, which one would it be?
I’d say 'Dragon King.' It’s a song about our lives as artists in Beijing. Hanging out in bars and chatting about things.
— What’s your favorite area in the city?
Gulou. It’s where I grew up. Also, the music scene is pretty sick there.
— Would you ever leave?
No. Beijing is where my home is.
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