Six stools sit alongside a small wooden bar, which surrounds an even smaller kitchen: one stove, one fridge. (This space was formerly – you guessed it! – a China Mobile. The owner left the original sign out front because he thought it was funny.) Pull up a seat, and the chef makes you whatever he wants. Most of the time, it’s dumplings, although he sometimes breaks out hot pots and barbecues. On the night of our visit, he makes us pork jiaozi with light shreds of ginger.
June 14, 2016
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