Everyone in Tianjin is talking about Gin Lounge. And that’s probably because of the huge human face dominating its interior. WeChat has made novelty far more contagious.
Upon arriving at this smart new bar, we’ve already heard rumors, conveyed to us through variations on the question, “have you heard about that bar with the massive face in it?” But nothing can prepare us for the sheer size and brutality of this curious decorative decision.
The Face protrudes from the wall like a malevolent giant. Its eyes are fixed on the middle distance, its top lip curled into a slight snarl. A pair of accompanying arms sit just below, crossed in judgment and sporting bulging biceps to enforce said judgment. Unsettling? Certainly. A talking point? Even more so.
Because regardless of whether you feel comfortable drinking in the inescapable company of such a beast, one thing is for sure: plenty of Tianjiners do. On our midweek visit, Gin Lounge is full to capacity and dripping with money. The oblong bar is lined with impeccably coiffed young things (they’re presumably responsible for the sports cars parked out front). And on the two floors above, well-heeled patrons sip cocktails on green leather sofas – all under the watchful gaze of The Face.
But look past the bar’s most obvious talking point, and you’re still left with an impressive cocktail lounge. The drinks are pricey by Tianjin standards, but they are inventive and humbler than the decor might suggest. Novelty will bring people in, but there’s enough quality here to keep them coming back. The service is sharp, the lighting is tuned to perfection and the ambiance feels genuinely refined.
Accordingly, Gin Lounge is a statement in more ways than one. Sure, it’s a bar with a giant face. But it’s also a middle finger to those who think that Beijing is the only place to hang out with the rich and beautiful. It’s a reminder that you don’t need to settle for apathetic table service at Muse. It’s a sign that Tianjin – a city in which it was once difficult to find good cocktails outside hotels – is stepping up.
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