Unlike most new spots that initially make an impact with their menu, L’étoile has lit up the Shenzhen food scene with its events, which have seen some of the highest quality imported ingredients ever served in the city.
When we visit it’s a black and white dinner party, complete with a saxophone player’s notes echoing around a restaurant that almost glows with luxury.
What makes it so luxurious? A wine room, stocked by sommelier and owner Michel Weiss, appears to have about a thousand bottles housed on climate controlled shelves. Outside of the main eating area, meals are also served in rooms that range in theme from Versailles-like opulence to recreations of dining beneath the Eiffel Tower.
Even the bread is imported from France, according to marketing manager Jimmie Lu.
While a 10-hour bread flight verges on the absurd, it shows the seriousness (or perhaps severity) with which food is treated. Chefs rotate and dishes change according to the night, but from what we’ve seen the sky-high quality never wavers.
When we pop in, Chef Christian Tetedoie is in the kitchen. In true French style, a bit of patience is required, as the meal plays out over about four hours through five dishes, all served with delicate presentation.
On the heavy side, the goose foie gras (RMB188) is served on a sweet baked apple, balancing the liver’s rich taste. Mild-flavored codfish and spring vegetables (RMB248) doubles down on freshness with a green vegetable sauce.
The main dish is a 120-gram beef tenderloin and potato tartlet (RMB358). The juicy steak alone is reason to plan another visit.
Most food is paired with wines carefully chosen by Weiss, who says that L’étoile may not be a Michelin-starred restaurant, but is likely to stand the test of customers and time. Ultimately, however, the question remains the same as it has for other expensive, ambitious gambles: does Shenzhen desire this level of luxe?
Price: RMB360
Who’s going: moneyed couples, French foodies
Good for: impressing a date, proposing, a four-hour French vacation
0 User Comments