Remote locale aside, My Beer Taproom & BBQ stands out like a sumo wrestler in a cross-country meet, as long as you know what you’re looking for. Perched on the second story of an old warehouse overlooking an industrial plaza in Liwan, the site doesn’t even have to try to be badass to rack up major points in the category. The only entrance comes in the form of a blinding neon orange metal staircase that winds narrowly upward for three stories like postmodern architecture suffering from ADD.
Rounding one last terrifying turn on the vertigo-inducing stairway, we meet a stretch of open-air and spacious indoor seating areas that resemble a cross between sleek brewery and southern diner. The main room is covered in metal signs proclaiming, “Beer is now cheaper than gas; drink, don’t drive!” and “Beer is the reason I get up every afternoon.” It’s hard not to be in the mood – booze and brisket mood, that is.
Too smooth to fall for a jack-of-all-trades business plan, My Beer Taproom & BBQ specializes in just two things: American barbecue and craft beer. Born and raised in South Carolina, before traveling across the country to taste the culinary trademarks of each state, Neil Yaun is in charge when it comes to smoking meat for hours, 10 to 12 in the case of the Texas-style brisket (RMB78).
Served on a wooden platter with mustard-based potato salad courtesy of his grandmother’s recipe and Guangzhou’s first legit American coleslaw, all barbecued meats are smoked to perfection, clutching expertly to the bone but not falling off, which we’re told is the mark of an amateur. The Memphis ribs (RMB88) are divine. Slow cooked and soaked in original flavor, the meat is silky and addictive on the tongue. For layers of smoky tenderness, the pulled pork sandwich (RMB40) is another satisfying pick, best paired with a squirt of Carolina gold sauce.
Memorabilia from Neil’s explorations into US culinary history, each homemade sauce points to the birthplace of classic American flavors. The barbecue sauce, for instance, captures the essence of St. Louis with a hint of Budweiser beer, supposedly a secret ingredient in dishes hailing from the brand’s hometown. Neil has even managed to track down ingredients in China to create an authentic Texas mop sauce, experimenting to find an ideal level of spice.
At My Beer Taproom & BBQ, dining is an art rooted in balance, and that’s where the home brewing comes in. Crafted by Lazy Guys’ own Rocky Wang, the collection of draught beers at the eatery complement each tangy, smoked dish. From IPAs and rich hoppy combos like the Black Beauty brew, to lighter wheat varieties (starting at RMB48/500 milliliters, RMB90 for sampler of six), Rocky has the spectrum covered. And in an effort to promote the emerging beer culture in Guangzhou, Rocky and Neil are happy to serve crafts from other local brewers as well. So for anyone still lugging a copper tank around town, it’s time to hook up with these microbrew pioneers.
Though reasonably priced pizzas, pasta, salads and sandwiches round out the menu, it is highly recommended – no, essential – that guests go for the no-nonsense greasy feats of the South and Midwest. After all, what’s a pint of beer good for if not to wash down southern comfort food?
Price: Approx. RMB150 per person
Who’s going: Harley-Davidson gangs, IPA scouts in withdrawal
Good for: Best ribs in town, craft beer
// Listing.
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