The Place
Foodies, take note: if you dig Michelin-quality dishes and are looking to throw down on a fine dining experience that promises to be impeccable from start to finish, then Yun Pavilion at the newly-opened Conrad Guangzhou might just be the place to splurge.
Featuring modern and experimental – yet fundamentally Cantonese – dishes, Yun Pavilion is helmed by tastemaker Chef Tan, who takes immense pride in dabbling in both classic and molecular creations.
The Food
At Yun, all the usual menu suspects are in evidence, from double-boiled soups and sea cucumber to premium bird’s nest and barbequed pork, so one may start to wonder how the chef will demonstrate his culinary prowess through such common dishes.
But even something as simple and down-to-earth as stewed organic vegetables in fresh fish broth (RMB108) at Yun delivers an experience you won't forget. Light to the palate, the broth is flavorful, drawing from gelatin-producing parts of the fish to create an emulsion that gives the warm soup its signature creaminess.
The rock salt baked chicken (RMB338/whole, RMB168/half) is elevated by the artistic technique of using a rock salt base to lock in the moisture and flavor to create juicy, tender morsels.
If seafood takes your fancy, opt for the Shunde-style steamed mandarin fish with rice flour sheets (RMB338), with slivers of chili and scallions. It may seem simple to describe, but at Yun, it’s a taste to behold.
For daintier bites, a must-try is the chilled French goose liver in red wine and blueberry sauce (RMB238); the slightly tart sauce is a faultless veil for the creamy cubes of foie gras that melt in your mouth. The deep-fried goose puff (RMB28), which looks more like delicate art than food, sits in a dainty wooden cage. Once you figure out how to gracefully bite into those layers of thinly crafted pastry, the crispy exterior contrasts the rich filling, making it a scrumptious combination.
But what really makes Tan’s menu stand out is the stellar cast of cutting-edge molecular creations. Start with the pan-fried Canadian scallops (RMB98/two) with truffle-infused cream sauce, crowned with shavings of truffle, tangy foam emulsion and mash. Seductive and delicious, you will be forgiven for scraping that extra-large plate clean.
The slow-cooked soft boiled egg (RMB68) is simple yet visually appealing, sitting on a bed of organic greens doused in Japanese sesame sauce and Russian caviar in a smoke-filled glass nest. For a sweet end, order the liquid nitrogen cream drops (RMB128), served tableside. The cold concoction is squirted from a soda siphon into a glass bowl filled with the go-to ingredient of molecular gastronomy – liquid nitrogen – bubbling away at negative 198 degrees Celsius. It solidifies instantly, the air inside giving it a popcorn shape. Take your spoon to it and as you roll it around your tongue, it will start to disappear. You’ll then feel a different sensation – a feathery cold – that also fades, this time into the flavor of ginger milk pudding. It’s delicious, and a striking dish for its textural novelty, whimsical playfulness and presentation that Tan does so beautifully.
The Vibe
If you're primed to be pampered, put on your Sunday best and opt for a seat at one of Yun’s many private rooms. With sleek interiors, Xiguan-style woodwork and modern lighting, you'll agree that the service here is attentive, making for an impressive, albeit costly, culinary experience.
Price: RMB400
Who’s going: molecular gastronomists, those with deep pockets
Good for: Cantonese with a twist, designer recipes, artistic creations
Nearest metro: Liede (Exit B), 5 minutes
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2.30pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10pm. See listing for Yun Pavilion.
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