When confronted with questions of authenticity, purists are often quick to add the begrudging qualifier, “It's pretty good… for Guangzhou.” Bubba Mac's Smokehouse needs no such addendum – it’s mighty good barbecue, period.
With a cult following in Shekou, Shenzhen, where everyone from neighborhood families to burnt-end addicts make the pilgrimage to this perpetually packed joint, chef Brad Greene and pit-master Kory Louis have crafted a sleeve-rolling, unpretentious American BBQ menu for its latest branch in Guangzhou.
Organized by ‘pig,’ ‘bird’ and ‘cow’, it’s a rustic love letter to the South, promising to satisfy the cravings of all carnivores willing to witness their taste buds cheering and their arteries recoiling in fear. Given barbecue's history as the food of the common man, the traditional route is the way to go; follow the smoke to their open kitchen, order some homespun fare, get your hands dirty and soak it all up with booze.
To start, try the beef brisket poutine (RMB78/one person, RMB98/sharing portion), served on a paper-lined red plastic tray. Thin-cut fries are topped with loads of chunky beef and smoked cheese, melted and mixed with beer for a stringy, rich texture.
If it is more meat you’re after, sink your teeth into remarkably tender and sticky slabs of pork ribs (RMB125/half rack, RMB178/full rack), guaranteed to have you wiping your mouth with wet wipes. These glistening slabs of meat porn are first copiously rubbed with Bubba’s secret seasoning before being nursed and perfumed lovingly for nine hours in smoking pits. Boasting an excellent balance of fat to flesh, the meat on these ribs is smoked to perfection.
This metal and rustic wood-clad den also serves up a classic Texas-style pulled pork sandwich (RMB85). It’s elevated from the usual saucy porcine slop you might be used to eating, to hand-pulled tenderness that will silence even the pickiest of BBQ hard-liners.
If white meat calls to you, the chicken and and biscuits (RMB88) is served just like mama used to make – messy and piled high. If you are dining in a quartet, select the West Memphis four (RMB488). This goliath platter has the works: brisket, pulled pork, chicken wings, ribs, devilled eggs and four sides, giving you a taste of the full repertoire.
Even though Bubba Mac’s bar doesn't have the showy mixologists, it is stocked with boozy shakes, whiskeys and a very decent selection of craft and bottled brews. For tap pours, try Urban IPA or Rogue Dead Guy Ale (both RMB55). The ciders are a party in your mouth, with the Brothers toffee apple (RMB60) tasting so delectable it could moonlight as dessert.
With daily drink specials in the cards (and rumors of glorious deep-fried Mars bars for dessert), this meat shrine is a good place to get drunk or shovel piles of meat in your mouth. Our suggestion: do both.
Price: RMB125-150 (including a drink)
Who’s going: Southern BBQ lovers, non-vegetarians
Good for: Finger-licking low and slow fare, craft beer
> For address, see listing.
0 User Comments