New Restaurant: El Cafetal

Named the world's leading culinary destination by the World of Travel Awards for the second consecutive year, Peru has emerged as the gastronomic epicenter for creative, delicious and flavorful dishes. It is also the contemporary origin of another f-word: fusion. Marked by complexities dating back to the 16th century, Peruvian food is a blend of its Incan roots, mixed with Spanish, Arab, African, Chinese, Italian, Japanese and French influences, and the result is a distinct, tantalizing story on a plate. Only now has the acclaimed cuisine finally arrived in Guangzhou.

El Cafetal is the city’s newest, and perhaps only, authentic Peruvian restaurant, located conveniently on Xingsheng Lu. With its outdoor area seating under a glass-stained canopy, it delivers an old-fashioned aesthetic, reiterated by dark leather chairs and an earth-toned bar. Boasting a complementary menu of pasta, burgers, Colombian staples like empanadas, Mexican dishes like burritos and quesadillas and other crowd pleasers, it aims to satisfy the masses, and although the food is pleasant, you can chuck that menu in a corner and turn to the uber-talented Chef Carlos and his bolder, more risque Peruvian specialties.

The crown jewel of this place is the ceviche mixto (RMB85). Finger-sized pieces of raw white fish sit in a submerged maceration of leche de tigre, or tiger’s milk, a concoction of acidic lemon, aji limo peppers, sliced red onions, salt and pepper, surrounded by corn, sweet potato and cilantro. This bold and addictive fare will make you forget about social or romantic obligations.

If raw is your thing, try the tiradito nikkei (RMB75). A cousin to ceviche, tiradito has Japanese roots and, much like carpaccio, is thinly sliced. Stretched out delicately on a plate, a citrusy dressing is drizzled last minute that urges you to suck up every delicious drop.

For mains, the pesado con arroz chaufa (RMB80) is a must. Chaufa is the ubiquitous stir-fried rice that is perhaps the most famous of chifa dishes. Chifa is a fusion of Peruvian Criolla and Cantonese food, as well as a play on the Chinese words chi fan (to eat rice). It all started when settlers from Guangdong landed in Peru in search of employment during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The problem? Many of the ingredients they were used to tossing in clay pots and woks were not available in Peru, so they improvised, creating what is now recognized as an essential part of Peruvian cuisine.

The emblematic lomo saltado (RMB150) is another chifa favorite and is excellently made; a choice cut of sliced beef, stir-fried with hot peppers and onions, with crispy french fries and a side of white rice.

El Cafetal does more than enough to promote Peruvian food, and given its vibe, one can expect it to attract a diverse patronage, the kind of curious diners who could popularize this up-and-coming cuisine.

Price: RMB100-150

Who’s going: Fusion foodies, spice lovers

Good for: Raw, fresh fare, bold and authentic flavors
 

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