The people of France have contributed much to the world over the centuries: croissants, existentialism, the guillotine, an iconic landmark that looks like a transmission tower… they’ve even attempted to trademark the kiss. All these, we feel, would make exemplary names for a traveling French restaurant – unlike the cappuccino, a distinctly Italian beverage last time we checked.
Nevertheless, a visit to French bistro, Cappuccino, reminds us that in Beijing you should not judge a restaurant by its name. (Especially if you’re expecting a Parisian baguette at Paris Baguette). Cappuccino, which is located at the top end of Sanlitun’s O.G. Bar Street, offers genuinely appetizing bistro fare at decent prices and of unexpectedly good quality. Steak tartar (RMB98), burgundy escargots (RMB78), poulet roti (RMB158, above) foie gras (RMB138, below)… if this place dropped from the sky onto an unsuspecting French town square very few noses would be turned up in disgust.
Photos by Noemi Cassanelli
Is the misnomer a cunning ploy to lower expectations? Or maybe the investor is an EU diplomat on some deranged mission to fudge cultural icons and promote a borderless continent? Actually, this restaurant’s Chinese owner spent five years working on French vineyards and has handpicked an ex-Maxim’s de Paris chef to head up operations in the kitchen. The experience shows, as from our first bite of warm, doughy baguette to a rich chocolate fondant finish (RMB55), there’s barely a step wrong.
The grilled steak (RMB148, above) is firmly presented as the house special. It’s grain-fed, import-quality and accompanied by fries and a selection of sauces (béarnaise, black pepper or red wine). It’s as good as anything you’ll get for that price, but steak is steak – we feel there’s more satisfaction to be had from getting a quality plate of grilled lamb chops (RMB168) or moules marinières (RMB88) a stone’s throw from Beijing’s premier lady bars. Prawns with saffron sauce (RMB268) and mushroom soup (RMB50) complete an indulgent lunch on the tree-covered terrace.
So what are you waiting for? 2014 marks 50 years of Sino-French relations – what better way to celebrate than with a chateaubriand steak in the heart of Sanlitun’s embassy district (RMB468 for two people)? Cappuccino suggests relations are still healthy and there’s not much that could be improved on, save for the addition of a cheese board (coming we’re promised)… and that name. Our suggestion: stick a ‘le’ in there. ‘Le Cappuccino’. Problem solved.
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