‘New speakeasy in Sanlitun’ is becoming the most hackneyed phrase in describing Beijing’s bar scene. We can barely muster the energy to finish this sentence.
But Night & Nice, the newest speakeasy on the SLT block, and from the same people behind Revolution, Hidden House, Ala House and D&M Bar, is pretty, well, nice. And as with all charming things, think: puppies, babies and your co-worker crush, it’s difficult to find fault.
We were skeptical of their name for a start (just try saying it out loud). And the fact that it is located outside the Taikooli-and-Courtyard-Four perimeter also struck us as odd. Tucked down a quiet embassy street, Night & Nice is so discrete we almost walk past it, but for the stylish neon sign that saves us just in time. At least they have a sign, we figure, unlike some other Speakeasies That Shall Not And In Fact Cannot Be Named.
The cocktail menu is categorized by base, so if you’re choosy with your booze then you’re in luck. But it’s also easy to get overwhelmed by the pages upon pages of drinks. We suppose this serves as a good opportunity for bartender and co-owner Vincent Guo to share his recommendations: the Blueberry Queen and the Love of the Hawthorn Tree (both RMB70).
As Vincent skillfully whips up our cocktails, we take a look around. There are leather booths topped with a smattering of printed cushions, but our favorite features are the barrel-shaped stools and barrel-shaped lights. We feel like we are at the hull of a (classy) ship en route to Speakeasy Land, and that maybe later we will drink from an upturned boot because that’s probably what Johnny Depp – pre-midlife crisis, of course – did in Pirates of the Caribbean (but only in the first one, the sequels are mega shit).
Anyway, we digress. There is also an upstairs area that is yet to open, and Vincent informs us it will be come summer.
The cocktails themselves – not served in a boot, probably for the best – are tart and fruity. The Blueberry Queen’s brandy, champagne and triple sec combo isn’t overpowering, which depending on your taste, is either good or bad. And the Hawthorn Tree’s Aperol and homemade hawthorn pulp with egg white is, true to name, rather lovely.
At the end of the day (Night?), it’s a solid spot and actually, we kind of like how it’s away from the busy bar area. That way it really does feel like we’re on a boat, in the middle of the Sanlitun Sea. We imagine that, when summer rolls around, it’ll be all hands on rooftop.
See listing for details.
Images by Holly Li
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