Okra 1949 won That's Beijing's Editors' Choice award for Restaurant of the Year. See here for the rest of the results.
Max Levy was surprised that his restaurant, Okra 1949, won That’s Beijing’s Editors’ Choice for ‘Restaurant of the Year.’ Which is weird, because we were surprised that he was surprised. Levy’s endlessly creative sushi restaurant has been dropping culinary bombshells on Beijing since its opening, and its success is the reason why this interview took place over the phone – Levy had to call us from Hong Kong, where he’s busy opening a second location.
Is winning a Michelin star a goal of yours?
A boss of mine actually rejected his Michelin star. I don’t know if I would reject it [laughs], but I don’t wake up every morning thinking: ‘What can I do to get a Michelin star?’ Okra still operates based on what I feel is right, and how we’re going to give not only a good experience to a customer, but also a unique experience. But of course it would be awesome to win a Michelin star, especially as an American, because I remember when I was growing up, Michelin stars weren’t in the US at all.
On the ground floor [at Okra Hong Kong], there’s more of a relaxed bar-like atmosphere. But on the second floor, we have a sushi bar that has some elements of what would be considered a Michelin-star sushi bar.
What are those elements?
It’s about exclusivity now, and intimacy. That’s because here in Hong Kong you can go to places and the bill, without alcohol, will be over HKD2,000 (roughly RMB1,700). If you’re spending that kind of money in Beijing, you’re at minimum getting a private room or you’re getting some sort of intimacy. Whereas here, you’re not guaranteed that.
Do you think Michelin will come to the Chinese Mainland?
I’m sure they’ll have a very thin Michelin guide come out at some point. But how do you even rate the restaurants? Do you just give all the stars to Da Dong and TRB? What do you do? Honestly – and I’m not just being diplomatic – I’ve thought about it many times, and I’ve never figured out how they’d be able to do it.
You’ve worked in Beijing for eight years. What do like about Beijing’s dining scene?
The lack of pretention. Bottom line. For example, when I’m at the sushi bar in Beijing, random people who I don’t even know will just come up to the sushi bar and talk to me. You can laugh, but I like the fact that people feel comfortable. They’re not being rude, but you don’t feel comfortable doing that in Hong Kong. In New York especially, you would never do that, and if you did, people would just give you dirty looks. I think that’s the main thing Beijing has over most cities – not just in Asia, but even in the world.
Okra 1949 is simply rad, and if you haven't been, you should. See listings for more info.
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