Shenzhen Restaurant Review: Tristan's Calmex

By Bryan Grogan, October 11, 2018

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The Place

Shenzhen has no lack of Mexican restaurants, what it does indeed lack, however, is a friendly, comfortable CalMex shop with tasty burritos, tacos and more. Tristan's CalMex is set up to fill up that niche. Tucked away in the vibrant side-streets of old Shekou, Tristan's is adorned in purple and orange, gold and yellow, with the intent, it seems, to remind visitors of the deserted landscapes that that stretch across northern Mexico and the southern portion of the United States. 

In many ways this is the perfect way in which to establish the atmosphere that our proprietor, Tristan, is trying to achieve. Not only does he mesh Mexican and American culture, but the inviting atmosphere of his establishments (not just in Shenzhen, but also in Guangzhou) hints at the fact that the bearded kitchen whizz is trying to bridge borders here, in the South of China – and what better way to gather people together than with some awesome food. 

The Food

Although the restaurant was in a soft opening phase when we visited, meaning that Tristan was the only cook in the kitchen, we got our food quickly. Deciding to try about as much as we could fit in our stomachs, we ordered a beef burrito (RMB60), Tristan's Mexican sausage tacos (RMB35) and the chicken quesadillas (RMB40).

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Image by Bryan Grogan/That's

Before we were served our food, however, we were presented with a bowl of what was possibly the best popcorn we’ve ever tasted in China. The secret ingredient: garlic salt, which added a real sharp shot of flavor. Before we could gobble down much more of the corn snack, our food arrived. 

We tucked into the tacos first and were immediately blown away by the salty, tangy, delicious sausage utilized in the dish. Imported from Italy, Tristan unwraps and then re-cooks his Mexican sausage, adding his own blend of spices to create a highly stimulating piece of meat. 

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Image via Bryan Grogan/That's

The chicken quesadillas arrived soft and juicy, so juicy, in fact, that one bite and we were splattered by a healthy dose of cheese and salsa, ruining our favorite shorts. No matter the mess, we forged ahead because the food was just that good. The quesadillas came topped with fruity salsa, but what was missing was a bit of spice. We took some of the habanero sauce that came with our meal and slathered it along the top of the quesadilla before taking another bite. Et voila, perfect.

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Image via Bryan Grogan/That's

Finally, we moved on to the beef burrito, which sat snug in the middle of our table. Feeling adventurous we picked up the big loaf of rice, beans and guacamole and took a few careful bites. The savory meat mixed well with the creamy, buttery flavor of the guac. Feeling, however, that the whole thing might fall to pieces at any moment, we avoided danger by placing the burrito back on its plate and cutting it open. Again, feeling in the mood for more spice, we added habanero sauce and the wonderfully fruity tomatillo sauce to the mixture. After engorging ourselves on a fantastic meal, we were loathe to say goodbye, not least because movement was a struggle.

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Image via Bryan Grogan/That's

The Vibe

Despite, as we mentioned above, being in its soft opening stage, Tristan's filled up quickly with families out for a communal feast. That is not to say that Tristan's doesn't have the air of secrecy about it – those in the know, know, you know? As with his Guangzhou establishment, Tristan has set up shop away from the promenades and the shopping malls, giving this lovely Cal-Mex shop a sense of being truly genuine. 

Price: RMB50-150
Who’s going: taco Tuesday fans, burrito bros
Good for: Mexican-esque food and beers, popcorn, a different kind of spice
Nearest metro: Shuiwan (Exit C), 15 minutes 

Open daily, 5pm-11am (reduced hours during soft opening, call restaurant for more info); see listing for Tristan's CalMex.

[Cover image via Tristan's Calmex]

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