The Place
Now that observation deck of Shenzhen’s tallest building is open, it’s the perfect time to visit the Ping’an IFC. Take in the verdant city from Olympian heights, then descend to a host of fine dining options, with the surprisingly homey and delicious Paulaner Brewpub among them.
Inside the eighth-floor eatery, light wood tones and bright plaids (for both upholstery and wait staff) welcome diners craving European fare or European sports (like the World Cup they’ll screen starting mid-June).
The Food
Guests get “the same treatment, service and food you’ll get in a Paulaner in Germany,” we’re assured by the manager, herself a veteran of the brand’s Shekou location and the Beijing Kempinski before that. And though she vows never to include rice dishes, the chef (also from the Kempinski) devised a menu that is half new, styled to the Chinese palate. Sichuan steak (RMB228) is a worthy addition that could feed two, with slices of tender, premium beef half-smothered by the pronounced mala sauce. When it gets too hot, the cheesy käsespätzle noodles give gracious relief.
Whether or not you think you like German pork knuckle, you’ll love Paulaner’s version (RMB88-258). The skin is crisped to crackling, the meat is pared away and the sauces – dark beer, black pepper or spicy Sichuan – appeal to the range of tastes.
But our favorite is the veal escalope (wiener schnitzel RMB218). It’s extremely tender, of course, but if the flour of the batter crust is too prominent on its own, it’s the perfect bite with creamy potato salad and sweet-tart cranberry. A shockingly good combo, all thanks to that sauce.
The Beer
As recent converts to the cult of hoppy IPAs, we were skeptical of the Paulaner lagers. Even if they’re brewed right here in Shenzhen by a young female brewmaster – a first for China, we’re told.
Yet our doubts were relieved by their dark lager (RMB48/300 mL RMB368/3L). With flavors like chocolate wrapping around the tongue, it could almost pass as a stout.
Other varieties are light as expected, but Paulaner plays to that with a range of sweet mixed beer drinks. Try it with Sprite (RMB45/300 mL) – it’s less sweet than expected and the stuff of leisurely day drinking. Less so the version with peach juice, where a round sweetness hides all flavor of beer.
Or just get a five-glass sampler (RMB98) and taste away till you find the one that’s just right for you.
Price: RMB150-300
Who’s going: business travellers, families, CBD workers
Good for: light beer, hearty European cuisine
Nearest metro: Shopping Park (Exit C), five minutes
See listing for Paulaner Brauhaus (Ping An IFC).
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