The Place
The original San Marco, located in historic Venice, is about as far from its Shenzhen namesake as you can get. Still, the new restaurant at the end of Coastal City does its best to look the part, with glass walls shedding light on small tables and comfy seating.
The restaurant is half-empty when we visit during a weekday lunch hour, though more customers filter in gradually. But compared to the bustle of the massive complex of food, shopping and entertainment just beyond its doors, it’s an oasis of calm.
The Food
Salmon carpaccio (RMB68) makes an excellent starter, seasoned lightly with dill, olive oil and finely diced onion and served alongside soft homemade breadsticks.
A large Palermo pizza (RMB108) topped with blobs of mascarpone cheese is a popular pick for a reason. The mild cheese balances salty pepperoni slices atop a thin, chewy crust.
The lasagna (RMB72) is less memorable to our American palate, with crumbly ground beef that reminds us of childhood cafeterias.
Luckily, it’s followed by a generous chunk of tiramisu (RMB48), saturated with rich espresso flavor and creamy with a hint of sweetness.
The drink menu sports some novelties: one whole page is dedicated to beverages with names like ‘Window of the World’ and ‘Convention and Exhibition Center.’ A Xiasha iced fruit tea (RMB42) tastes of citrus, and is refreshing rather than sugary.
The Vibe
Dishes are served up fairly quickly during our visit, although the lack of a large lunchtime crowd probably helps.
With its sunlit, cozy interior and reasonable prices, San Marco is neither fine dining nor completely casual. Instead, it strikes us as the kind of place where we’d invite a friend or business associate to enjoy, possibly over slices of tiramisu, some much-needed peace and quiet.
Price: RMB60-100
Who’s going: pizza lovers, office workers
Good for: lunch dates, Italian staples
Nearest metro: Houhai (Exit D1), 14 minutes
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