Coco Park is not a place one associates with history, but at Caroline by Les 5 Chef’s, there is 600 years of it – at least if you believe the writing (and drawing) on the wall.
Stretching across about a quarter of the restaurant, a mural illustrates the Dax family’s 600 years as restaurateurs. The main takeaway? Sometime after World War II, Harald Dax, one of the main men behind Les 5 Chef’s in Shekou, received the family recipes, and now those recipes – or dishes influenced by them – are being served in a well-lit underground location in Futian’s CBD.
Caroline is not just a copy of its Shekou cousin. Instead, it wisely caters to the scrum of white-collar workers with weekday set lunches costing between RMB38 and RMB58.
When we visit, we opt for the wiener schnitzel and potato salad set (RMB58).
The soup of the day arrives, a mix of carrots and celery cooked for an hour and half. Its broth doesn't overwhelm the vegetables and it’s not too hearty, leaving room for the main.
Jack Johnson plays in the background as we cut into the golden-yellow schnitzel using some heavy-duty silverware. The slightly salted Austrian staple is simple, to the point, and not quite filling on its own.
That’s what the potato salad is for – flavored with onion, parsley and German mustard, the mayonnaise doesn’t take center stage. A welcome change from some of the goop we’ve scrapped from Shenzhen plates.
A light cherry cheesecake, one of a rotating cast of sweets, caps off the meal. The plump cherries cooked inside seem to pop when bitten and lend a hint of their flavor to the rest of the dish.
The espresso (RMB18) may be the most affordable in the area, and though there is a bit more liquid to it than the Italian style, it’s as good as anything you’ll find for a few subway stops.
With experienced chefs, including That’s 2015 Chef of the Year, and established sources of fresh food, it should be smooth sailing for Caroline, with the biggest risk of the ship capsizing being high rent forcing a compromise in quality. Dax is adamant that won’t happen, saying ingredients will stay fresh and prices reasonable, even if it cuts into profits.
“For us, it’s about the long term business,” Dax says. Given his record of simple eats at reasonable prices in Shekou, we’re inclined to believe him.
Price: RMB100
Who’s going: white-collar workers, frugal foodies
Good for: value for your money, weekday lunch sets
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