Braceria Pugliese is the latest culinary effort by Caroppo Angelo, the veritable godfather of Shenzhen’s Italian cuisine, who can boast a 12-year history of running city staples such as Trattoria Italiana and Mediterranean Sun.
While his other restaurants have stuck to upscale locales, Braceria Pugliese is notable for opening in the Shuiwei urban village, where its airy interior and slick decor are a marked contrast to the lively and chaotic street outside.
As we approach, we see that evolving menu we’ve already heard about is complemented by an outdoor whiteboard displaying the day’s specials in English, Chinese and Italian.
Inside, fans suspended from the high ceiling give the restaurant a feeling of space despite its humble dimensions, which become more apparent as we squeeze into the wall-side seats. The music, one part 70s Italian disco another part faux Sinatra, is played at a level loud enough to invite the boisterous conversation that accompanies any authentic Italian meal.
We start with a cold cut platter of dry-cured ham, mortadella and salami presented with cheeses whose flavors pair well with the meat’s. At RMB100, this selection costs more than the main dish, but the price is in line with Shenzhen’s other Italian eateries.
The seasoned staff, hand picked from other restaurants, make the sometimes-onerous experience of being seated and ordering fast and friendly. While they are always present, the waiters never insinuate themselves into our party unless necessary. As we munch on our starter’s final morsels of meat, word of the imminent emptying of our plates is relayed to the kitchen, where the chefs get cooking on our main dish.
The RMB65 polpettone – something of an Italian meatloaf – arrives at our table, freshly pulled from the wood oven. It’s hardy fare that is usually reserved for the home, explains the Italian we are with, who also notes that the cooked egg in the center appears to be a personal touch by the cook.
With two Italian chefs ducking in and out of the kitchen, and quite eager to discuss their food with you, any fault in the meal is likely a matter of preference rather than a shortcoming.
An Italian-twist to Shuiwei’s casual atmosphere, with its professional service and expertly prepared food, Braceria Pugliese is a fresh and welcome addition to the short list of Shenzhen foodie favorites.
Price: RMB150
Who’s going: foodies, groups on a night out
Good for: casual Italian, wood-oven cooked meats
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