The Place
Ramen Mitsuyoshi is the latest ramen shop specializing in tonkatsu-broth noodles. The nondescript eatery on Liyuan Lu near the Madang Lu metro station in Huangpu district is the result of a collaboration between a local chef and the chef/founder of two Michelin-recommended Tokyo venues: Ramen Koike and Chuka Soba Nishino.
Inside, you order from a vending machine (so Japanese) with options to pay via Alipay or WeChat (so Chinese). Next, take a bar seat and watch the action while you wait. We were particularly mesmerized by the giant pot of tonkatsu broth being stirred by what looked like a yardstick as we inhaled the aromatic broth punctuated by the strong scent of sesame oil.
The Food
The three different flavors (all RMB42) of soup noodles on offer are tonkatsu (pork-based), spicy and black garlic. If you aren’t in the mood for broth, they also have a dry bowl (RMB40).
Of the trio, we found the black garlic to be the most stunning with an earthy depth and bold punch of molasses from the aged allium. There’s restraint in the seasoning with no MSG aftertaste, although we could do with a dash more salt. The simple tonkatsu is a taste of liquid comfort for more delicate palates. As for the spicy version, we could do with a bolder kick and less cilantro.
If you like thicker ramen cooked al dente, this is the place for you. As with most ramen joints, there’s an extra carb option, but we wished for more broth at the end of our bowls.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The toppings are a basic assortment of scallion, sliced pork, fish cake, rolled spinach and marinated bamboo shoots. There are sides and various soup add-ins, although we wish you didn’t have to pay RMB6 extra for an egg.
Karaage Chicken (RMB20) done well has firm, juicy flesh with a hint of sweet soy and garlic encased in a crisp potato starch shell. After a dip in Kewpie mayonnaise, we’d say these lion-colored nuggets more than fit the bill.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Glistening fatty slices of Pork Served with Wholegrain Mustard (RMB18) are also worth an order, but the Gyoza (RMB18) is surprisingly mediocre. Silly us, we reckon ordering gyoza at a ramen shop is the Japanese equivalent of ordering chicken at a steakhouse.
Food Verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
When it comes to springy noodles in a richly flavored broth, Ramen Mitsuyoshi hits the jackpot. Its authenticity is proven by the number of Japanese expat friends that have proclaimed it their new favorite ramen in Shanghai, with the vending machine and wraparound bar seating sealing the deal. Additionally, the combination of price and quality holds up well against competitors such as Butao.
Vibe Verdict: 1.5/2
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB50-100 per person
Who’s going: ramen addicts, Japanese expats, local foodies
Good for: solo dining, cheapish meals, quick dinners
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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