Shanghai Bar Review: Arch by Taste Buds

By Cristina Ng, June 28, 2019

We first met Vincenzo Pagliara at The Sukhothai Shanghai, and found ourselves extolling the virtues of his creative, nature-driven menu at The Zuk Bar. When we learned he was leaving Shanghai for his native Italy, we were bummed… until we found out he was going to split his time across continents and go into business with local industry all-star, Daniel An of Antique and Atelier fame.

We’ve been fans of An for even longer than Pagliara, watching his journey from the over-the-top creations of his first bar, Taste Buds Cocktail Palace, to the more restrained classicism of Atelier’s program. Always ones to experiment, this new partnership allows the pair to go nuts in their lab, where they keep the fancy equipment like a rotary evaporator behind a glass wall.

At Arch by Taste Buds, the results are featured on two different menus matching the venue’s two bars. There is a smaller aperitivo bar at the front, with a longer cocktail bar to the back. Both menus feature Italian and Chinese flavors, with the back bar’s menu laid out symbolically in an arch.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

On the left side, you’ll find drinks featuring Chinese flavors named for a prominent ingredient. Aloe (RMB85) is a delicate combination of lemongrass Mizu Shochu with salted grapes, guava, aloe and tonic, accented with a simple slice of dehydrated guava.

Following arch’s curve towards the fusion drinks, we enjoyed Saffron + Ginseng (RMB100). Although its faintly medicinal quality from ginseng and gentian root (found in the French aperitif, Suze) might not be for everyone, we found the soft citrus and saffron undertones pull things together nicely.

When we requested the oddest cocktail on the menu, Olive Oil (RMB85) was recommended. While mixing tequila, olive oil and clarified tomato together seems quite clever, this one didn’t land.

Much more to our taste was Beetroot (RMB85), a surprisingly clear combination of the earthy root vegetable with Campari, Absolut Elyx and chamomile. Even our friend that doesn’t normally like Campari liked this one. It’s served in an elegant cylindrical flute with dried chamomile flowers applied to the side of the glass as garnish.

Cedarwood (RMB85) isn’t a standard flavor in cocktails, but the fragrant smokiness plays very well with Hayman’s gin, coffee and tangerine.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Aperitivos range from classic to signature and go for a cool RMB65 during their 6-9pm happy hour. Our new current obsession is the Campari + BBQ Orange (RMB85), which tastes like you melted orange popsicles over a mesquite grill. It’s so bizarre that we shouldn’t like it, but it’s ambrosia for our jaded taste buds.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Did we mention the menu of well-priced and insanely tasty pasta? When we first talked to Pagliara about the new project, he mentioned that he was more excited about the food than the cocktails, and we can see why. In addition to being well-priced, we found the soft pillows of gnocchi in pesto cream sauce and cheesy, prosciutto-stuffed ravioli completely morish.

The design elements and ambiance are similar to Atelier, even though the offerings are radically different. Although the cocktails aren’t cheap, we have been popping by fairly often since the opening for pasta and a drink. Even on a busy Friday, service is attentive to the point that our water glass is never dry.

At the moment, staff are still learning some of the more complicated recipes and techniques, but any missteps have been handled with a swift apology and concerted efforts to remedy the situation. This is a bar we are eager to see grown into its own.

[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]