Shanghai Restaurant Review: Blackbird

By Cristina Ng, August 29, 2018

The Place

Image courtesy Blackbird

Shanghai’s latest and most ambitious lifestyle hub, Columbia Circle, is home to many recent openings. While most of these venues have yet to solidify their fan base, OHA Design’s new iteration of Blackbird already boasts a consistently full house. Perched along the glossy red bar are patrons served by tech-savvy mixologists utilizing sound waves and siphons to flavor cocktails, while Executive Chef Blake Thornley fills the design-forward dining area with snacks and shareable plates.

The Food

At Blackbird, you will want to hit up the snacks for the standout items, while the less memorable mains rein in the chef’s creativity. The uniquely named, smoked eel liver ears (RMB52) stuck with us long after the meal ended. The delicate combination of whipped duck liver, smoked eel, crispy pig ears, soy mint caramel and puffed rice cracker resembles a fish and tastes like heaven.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Also memorable, the malt foie gras (RMB180) where the complex sweetness of malt has a natural affinity with the richness of foie gras just as honeyed pears and notes of thyme gently enhance the fatty lobes.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Thornley’s take on pad Thai, which replaces the noodles with shredded cuttlefish (RMB80), is wildly addictive.Charred pineapple, bright citrus, and tempeh-infused oil round out this dish. Fire-kissed fruit also enhances pepper seared tuna (RMB92) by concentrating watermelon’s subtle sweetness. A sparkly house-made ponzu sauce provides a refreshing accent to the fish. Unfortunately spiced soft shell crab with onion, apples and chili (RMB72) doesn’t hold its own in a crowd of dishes so strong.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

When it comes to mains, one of the biggest successes is a lovely roasted ‘teenage’ chicken (RMB178) served alongside fresh flavors from cauliflower, coriander, zucchini and green chili.

In another slam dunk, roasted lamb loin (RMB135) is perfectly medium rare and decorated with spiced pumpkin and crispy date – a key element of our favorite dish at OHA Eatery. In an involved process, Thornley mixes pitted dates with cacao nibs that he flattens and freezes, before they’re thinly sliced. These chocolatey coins are dipped in a corn flour and egg white batter then deep-fried. We are into it.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

A bland bowl of green shell mussels and pork belly (RMB148) is less exciting since the small amount of pork brings little to the table.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

A fun trio of mini-courses irreverently labeled “Cheeses for Jesus” (RMB110) turns the concept of a cheese plate on its head and is our preferred way to end a meal here. A semi-firm Tomme de Savoie’s mild creaminess plays well with the jammy goodness of a caramelized grape puree and pomegranate reduction.

Image courtesy Blackbird

If you must have dessert, try the baked dark chocolate with malt powder (RMB69). The familiar flavors of the main ingredients are a comforting foil to the unique quenelle of butter-based, smoked red wine ice cream. It is much better than an overdone interpretation of a crust-less New York cheesecake (RMB72) with the unnecessary addition of fennel.

Food Verdict: 2.5/3

The Vibe

While we have minor qualms, we enjoy watching this talented chef work through his madness in the kitchen. Compared to OHA Eatery, which can be seen as too complicated, the risks taken at Blackbird are paying off.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

This innovation has worked its way into the beverages via foam, clarified juices, infusions and sauces for cocktails so stellar, they deserve their own article. If you are sick of the same old same old, you’ll want to check Blackbird out, stat.