Spotlight is a regular series where we feature a prominent person in the style scene. This month we speak with Fiona Ma, fashion buyer and stylist.
At the age of 27, Shanghai-based fashion designer Fiona Ma has had her womenswear label Kunmanma featured in one of the most well-respected showrooms of Paris Fashion Week since 2014. With a background in architectural design, Ma considers her clothing to be “the architecture for the human body.” Here, she tells us about how her studies have influenced her work in fashion.
When and why did you develop an interest in fashion?
Like most young girls, I was carried away by all these beautiful costumes on TV, especially the traditional ones from different cultures. I was fascinated by everything from the style of layering to the details like embroidery and embellishments. Eventually, I developed a strong interest in handcrafting: making origami,
beading, sketching and sewing. So, as I was figuring out my career path, I realized that making and designing clothes is something that I’d like to pursue and focus on.
Why did you decide to start Kunmanma in 2013? And why in Shanghai?
I came to Shanghai after separating from my previous design partner, whom I met in New York when I was working at DVF (Diane von Furstenberg). China is known for its garment manufacturers and their competitive prices, and I was lucky enough to have found a few factories who value quality craftsmanship that are located close to or within Shanghai. Time doesn’t wait for anybody, so I seized the opportunity to start Kunmanma.
How would you describe the style of your clothes?
It’s subtle and structural.
You studied architecture at university. Are the skills and knowledge you learned in school applicable to fashion design?
Definitely. I think the foundation of all disciplines of design is more or less the same… It’s about telling your story to the world through your products.
Where do you draw inspiration for your work?
Many things: from people on the street with creative styles, architecture, talking with my friends, or sometimes even daydreaming.
“The foundation of all design disciplines is about telling your story to the world through your products”
There are many designers and labels that I look up to, because of their design concept and style – everyone from Peter Zumthor, Dries Van Noten and Maison Margiela to luxury fashion houses like Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, just to name a few.
Who’s your target audience?
Confident, free-spirited women with a diverse lifestyle. Most of our pieces are oversized, which is great for people who like to move with ease and comfort. You can style our pieces with jeans, cardigans and casual
shoes during the day, and glam it up for a date or party in the evening with one of our tailored outerwear pieces, some jewelry and a pair of nice heels.
What are your favorite pieces from your latest collection?
I have two favorites – a cape shirt with raw-edged pleats and a silk tunic shirt with watercolor print. The former summarizes Kunmanma’s style: the silhouette has a relatively stiff structure while the color is lowkey, but it’s brightened up with creative details. The printed silk shirtdress, on the other hand, summarizes my personal style.
Any plans for expanding your brand or opening stores in China?
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week twice a year since 2014 with Florence Deschamps (one of the leading creative showrooms in Paris) gives me a better understanding of the diversity of the global market. We’re now working on expanding the collections by adding more styles based on feedback we've received. When the brand is mature enough, we will definitely think about opening physical stores, most likely in China first.
Visit Kunmanma here.
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