The nine-day fashion bonanza that was Shanghai Fashion Week featured more than 50 catwalks on its official schedule, as well as a new project, Labelhood, which was held in a gorgeous former Christian church near the contemporary Rockbund Art Museum and gave 12 emerging Chinese designers the opportunity to showcase their collections in a more intimate setting, away from the bling of Xintiandi. Structured in a presentation-like format, Labelhood included some of the hippest names in Chinese fashion today: Momo Wang and her Museum of Friendship, Haizhen Wang, Fixxed and Hihuman. Here’s a little round up of what we liked most...
1. Museum of Friendship
Momo Wang is known for her whimsical, tongue-in-cheek approach to fashion, and her presentation didn’t disappoint. For her show, the designer opted for a super casual setting, with models playfully striking poses for both photographers and audience, all the while dancing to ‘Je ne regrette rien’ by Edith Piaf, munching on cupcakes and drinking white wine.
Guangzhou-born Hihuman designer Zhou Xiaowen drew inspiration from Bruce Lee-era kung fu movies for her presentation. A mix of urban wear and nerdy cool, each menswear look was ultra approachable and relaxed, with pretty dope prints on casual sweaters, and pants that could be dubbed as ‘tracksuits for the hipsters.’ We can see this one being a big hit once it hits stores.
3. Fengchen Wang
Currently the hottest enfant prodige of China’s fashion scene, Beijing-born Fengchen Wang opted for a performance-style format for her A/W 16 collection, with VIP members of the audience handcuffed in pairs ahead of the show. The event itself – one of the most packed affairs at fashion week – was prison-themed with an almost apocalyptic twist, and all about hyperbole, from oversized shapes to eye-popping design elements and bold colors.
On the other end of the spectrum from Wang was Yirantian Guo, whose fall collection showed structured silhouettes, tailoring and luxe materials, speaking perhaps to a more mature fashion consumer. This was a very somber show, all clean lines and strict cuts, monochrome hues and leather, leather, leather.