We usually try to be glass-half-full types when it comes to assessing fledgling bars, but it’s hard to ignore that newly opened Xun Bar & Bistro is only filling a fraction of its potential. Blessed with a good-sized, inviting shop front on the main street and flanked by popular restaurants, bringing customers into the place should be a doddle, yet as we walk in only staff playing on phones can be found.
Overcoming initial astonishment at the advent of a customer, one bartender gets to work on a nicely balanced dill gin fizz (RMB68) from the extensive signature cocktail list, afforded an extra boost of body from frothed egg white.
Classics also get a look in at Xun, their Singapore Sling (RMB78) is as good as the original at the Raffle’s Hotel in Singapore: best suited to sweeter palates. Ordering off-menu seems to take the staff out of their comfort zone, our request of a white Russian was met with a pursed lip, which turned into a sigh of relief when we switched our order to a caipirinha (RMB68). Also well made, for the record.
In addition to cocktails, Xun also sells affordable wines by the glass (RMB28-48) and a good selection of mid-range whisky (RMB68-118/glass). Sadly they don’t have the orb-like circular ice we’ve been spoiled by at specialized whisky joints, but Xun does serve their firewater with a hunk of good quality ice.
With good quality, affordable drinks in a prime location, Xun ought to be filled with customers. Certainly there’s no doubt of head mixologist Lei He’s credentials, he was former bar manager of Lady Bund and founder of the roving cocktail pop-up, L&R Bartender Corner. We just wish they’d work on bringing in more people and giving Xun the vibe it deserves.
Price: drinks from RMB28-118
Who’s going: a trickle of locals
Good for: cocktails, wine, whisky, dates, quiet drinks
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