A century has now passed since the world’s most prestigious food directory, the Michelin Guide, was first published. Their critical star system, renowned for its stringent and consistent commitment to creativity, quality and sensory experience, has become a touchstone globally for food connoisseurs: one star, “a very good restaurant in this category”; two stars, “excellent cooking, worth a detour”; or three stars, “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.”
But Chinese mainland, a country with one of the richest culinary histories, has yet to receive its first Michelin star. Surprised? Don’t be. Experts say it’s because the Western Michelin inspectors lack the knowledge to decipher the true essence of Chinese cuisine. Or perhaps it’s just because there hasn’t been anyone brave enough to endure the pressure of such a prestigious accolade. But Chef Alan Yu, who hails from Shanghai, is a man rising to the occasion.
Li Chateau, his latest brainchild, is a Sino-European spin on some of his signatures. Yu was previously the executive chef of the now-defunct 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana Shanghai, where he worked with gastronomic maestro Umberto Bombana, owner of the original in Hong Kong. The Hong Kong restaurant is famed for being just one of five three-Michelin-starred restaurants in the city.
With our palates set up for high expectations, we ventured out to discover what makes Li Chateau tick. Located adjacent to the entrance of the Marriott Hotel Tianhe, one takes a snazzy elevator to the basement to arrive at this fine dining establishment, where waiters welcome patrons in fluent English to a Lingnan-inspired interior of platinum and wooden tones and life-sized statues of over- weight terracotta warriors on Napoleonic-like metal horses.
Subdued and particularly romantic, Li Chateau appears to be where the city’s nouveau elite, courting couples and Tatler-hungry socialites meet under dim lights to discuss real estate prices, fashion and the like. At least, that’s the impression.
It’s obvious the focus is on the food; spot- lights shine on their white tablecloths and the menu screams out opulent ingredients like Beluga caviar and truffles. The duo of foie gras (RMB148) is cooked in a terrine and pan-fried, topped with lemon, fig and black- currant jam, edible flowers and a crispy pa- per-thin toast. On the surface, the flavor combinations seem serendipitous, but there is method in the mad burst of sweet, creamy, salty and rich. Homemade smoked salmon with baby potatoes, poire William sauce, cheese shavings and sundried tomatoes is not to be upstaged and delivers on all levels of satisfaction.
For the main act: a char-grilled Australian Wagyu sirloin (RMB208) with a carrot puree, seasonal vegetables and black pepper sauce. Although appetizing, the presentation is a tad over the top and we would have preferred a cleaner look. The crispy- skinned roasted cod (RMB228) with octopus, sundried tomatoes, creamy asparagus and garlic foam on a bed of beetroot puree is equally palatable; the fish melts in the mouth to produce a fabulous melange of flavors when devoured with its accompaniments.
The scene-stealing monologue of the night, though, is undoubtedly the dessert. Soft chocolate cake (RMB68) with a rasp- berry smoothie, homemade vanilla ice cream and chocolate crunch is decadent and lush, with the acidity of the raspberry contrasting the sweet, cold ice cream. The tiramisu (RMB68) is light and well set, its peaks of coffee-coated cream arousing the palate with every bite.
With set menus offered for lunch and a generous bar stocked with the essentials, Li Chateau is both dinner- and date-worthy, albeit with a high price tag. By the end of the night, we were starstruck and ready to cuddle up and talk dirty. About our empty plates, that is.
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