The Place
Fashion Tianhe Plaza, Tiyuxi’s busy underground commercial sector, is a maze of boutiques, gift shops, cafes and restaurants. Recently added to its food scene is Malaysian eatery Mamak – a small kitchen with a counter and less than a dozen tables, all exposed to the hustle and bustle of a shopping area. In this sense, it resembles a dai pai dong – open-air food stalls found in Hong Kong.
The Food
It’s the laksa seafood meehoon (RMB38) here that draws eaters to Mamak. Regarded as one of Malaysia’s national foods, this rice noodle dish comes in a soup that’s simmered for hours with an array of spices and infused with coconut milk. In the words of a Malaysian friend, “Mamak’s laksa is what has been missing from the city’s Southeast Asian food scene.” Its rich and refreshing taste is the sole reason we would consider a return to this underground eatery.
On the flip side, avoid the nasi lemak (RMB32), which serves up a mixed bag of mushy coconut-flavored rice, peanuts, anchovies, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes with half a boiled egg. The taste is average, at best. Although the dish is visually appealing, the stale drumstick and sambal is a letdown in the taste department.
Image via Barnaby Lofton for That's
As for dessert, try the air batu campur (RMB24), ‘mixed ice cube,’ which is hailed as the Southeast Asian country’s national dessert: An ice-based bowl with red beans, herbal jellies, longans and sweet corn, topped with a scoop of ice cream.
Image via Barnaby Lofton for That's
The Vibe
If you’re looking for a pleasant and quiet ambiance, Mamak won’t cut it. With its wide-open setting, eating here is accompanied by a symphony of shoppers’ noises and in-store pop music.
Price: RMB60
Who’s going: young Chinese shoppers, people watchers
Good for: lip-smacking laksa
Nearest metro: Tianhe Sports Center (Exit D), 2 minutes’ walk
Open daily, 11am-9.30pm; see listing for Mamak.
[Cover image via Barnaby Lofton for That's]
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