The Place
The island nation of Japan boasts diverse culinary customs and dishes celebrated by foodies the world over, from sushi and teppanyaki to tempura and ramen, among countless others. Yakitori, however, is among the lesser known of Japanese culinary traditions. In a nutshell, yakitori is grilled, skewered chicken, and dates back to the Edo period in 17th century Japan. Today, the dish can be tasted in all its perfection at Toritama. Since the establishment of the first Toritama in Tokyo in 1999, this skewered chicken restaurant and bar chain has opened branches across Asia and won numerous honors, including four Michelin Bib Gourmand awards.
The chain specializes in grilling up every part of a chicken you can imagine. And yes, you can eat bird testicles here. At the flagship eatery in Tokyo, there are 40 different chicken skewers that can be ordered, according to Matsuzawa Jun, the head chef at Toritama’s newest location – a Guangzhou branch on Tianhe Dong Lu.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
When we pop into the chain’s new Tianhe haunt, Chef Jun is busy heating up a spread of white charcoal, which can reach temperatures as high as 600 degrees Celsius. The secret to grilling up a mean batch of chicken skewers, Jun tells us, is to expose the meat to the heat – not the flames. The former helps seal the original flavors in the chicken flesh, and Jun would know – having worked at the Tokyo Toritama, Jun is something of a chicken skewer maven.
The Food
The must-order dishes here, however, are the momo, or chicken thigh skewer (RMB18), and the chicken meatball (RMB15). The momo uses what is arguably the best poultry part and comes with a seven-ingredient dip known as shichimi, while the meatball is elevated by the addition of gristly chicken parts. Another hot order is the chicken intestine (RMB25), which comes with eggs attached and is apparently in limited supply.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
While Toritama’s skewer offerings are undoubtedly tasty and extensive, you won’t sate your appetite on meat sticks alone. As such, we recommend sampling the establishment’s minced meat and chicken skewer on rice (RMB65), a hearty dish, whose flavor is balanced by the addition of nori and a half-cooked egg.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
To wash your protein down, consider diving into Toritama’s drink menu, which features beer, wine, whiskey, sake, cocktails and soju. A pro tip before we wrap this up: remove the chicken meat from the skewer before eating it, as eating off the stick is frowned upon in the Japanese culinary tradition.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
The Vibe
When we visit on a Friday at around 6pm, the venue is already swarmed with enthusiastic customers, who are seated at one of the intimate location’s 18 seats. Considerate service sets the tone, while chatty customers make the space feel welcome.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: Guangzhou’s Japanese community, culinary cosmonauts
Good for: testicle-lovin’ diners, Michelin-quality chicken skewers
Nearest metro: Shipaiqiao (Exit D), 10 minutes’ walk
Open daily, 5.30-10pm; see listing for Toritama.
[Cover image via Toritama]
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