Oldie but Goodie is a monthly column where we feature noteworthy restaurants, cafes or bars that have been open at least six months and are worth a try.
This month, in light of the inaugural Michelin Guide Guangzhou 2018, which graced the home of Cantonese food this past June, we introduce to you the sole winner of the Revitalized Cuisine Award: Ze 8.
Cantonese cuisine is distinguished by its preparation methods, be they steaming, simmering, decocting or braising. Ze (啫), a cooking method where food is fried in an earthenware pot, has yet to be counted among these typical culinary styles.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
To give you an idea of what the ze process entails, the classy ‘ze ze’ eel (RMB79) begins with the frying of garlic, red peppers and chives in sauce, followed by searing the eel in spice before adding a splash of huangjiu (yellow wine) to conclude. The entire process takes about 20 seconds, according to Ze 8’s manager.
At Ze 8, ‘ze-able’ options range from seafood and rice to vegetables and frog. The most popular choice is the 'ze ze' lobster with chili (RMB369, serves four), which comes doused in vanilla, chilies, shrimp and seven other ingredients. These elements take turns teasing the tongue for a complex, layered piquancy.
A Cantonese meal is never complete without soup and the stewed chicken with abalone here (RMB39) is decidedly robust. Simmered for hours not on a stove but in a pressure cooker, the soup delivers a rich smack of natural oils from the chicken, abalone and herbs.
Image by Tristin Zhang/That's
Ze 8 offers a soothing and agreeable aura with its timber and bamboo accents. And its culinary approach – reminiscent of an eatery from the Song Dynasty – is complemented by wooden spoons and ceramic bowls that nod to the humble ways of ancient China.
Price: RMB90-150
Nearest Metro: The 2nd Workers’ Cultural Palace (Exit D), 20 minutes
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[Cover image by Tristin Zhang/That's]
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