The Place
Bagel shops might proliferate in Seoul, but they are few and far between in Guangzhou, as Marcus Liu observed when he returned to China after studying in the South Korean capital.
Craving bagels himself – as just about anyone who’s tried them inevitably will – Liu resolved to open a shop of his own in the diverse neighborhood of Jianshe Liu Malu two months ago. Dubbed ‘About Bagels,’ it joins Feel More Coffee and Bagels as the second of two bagel shops in the city.
The dining area comprises just two wooden tables and a few chairs humbly placed before a tiny storefront. The business, which is closed on Tuesdays, is further jeopardized by the rain, as diners sitting beneath the patio awning still tend to get wet during a shower.
The Food
Stepping into About Bagel is to enter the experimental laboratory of Liu. The bill of fare sketched on a blackboard in back lists a dozen or so creative ‘bagelwiches,’ and patrons can choose between eight homemade bagel varieties: plain, sesame, poppy seed, squid ink, cinnamon raison, the gimmicky rainbow bagel and so forth.
Written on another blackboard to our right are some nutrition facts about the dense bread roll: ‘low fat,’ ‘low cholesterol,’ ‘low sugar,’ ‘low fermentation,’ ‘originating in 1680 in Central Europe…’ A third blackboard divulges the origin of each ingredient: ‘salmon from Norway,’ ‘beef from Australia,’ ‘ham from the US’ and so on.
Keep an eye out for the avocado, egg, cream cheese and lox bagelwich (RMB48) – the most expensive one boasting a classic yet intriguing combination. Onions, lettuce and tomatoes are piled on as well, even though they’re not listed on the menu.
Try also the classic bacon with egg and cheddar (RMB30). The taste of salty bacon paired with mayo and pickles makes for a complex yet satisfying mouthfeel.
The bagels themselves did not fully live up to our anticipation, as they were fairly crispy and hard rather than dense and chewy. You may want to wash one down with a tasty cup of passion fruit soda (RMB16).
Another popular order is the ‘pulled pork’ (RMB30), or, as its Chinese moniker goes, ‘the hand-ripped ex-boyfriend.’ And then there’s the beloved rainbow bagel (RMB28), comprised of plain dough mixed with food coloring and filled with Oreos and cream cheese.
It has become the trademark of About Bagel, and although it’s only available on Saturdays or for special order, Liu tells us “a lot of young girls come in just to take selfies with the rainbow bagel… they don't even care how it tastes – they order it, take one bite and leave the rest on their plate.”
By NYC standards, About Bagel’s prices are high. As Liu weeds out less popular sandwiches on the menu, we hope to see some reasonable price adjustments too.
The Vibe
Situated beside ‘The Beer Shop’ and surrounded by backstreets, a casual and relaxed ambience dominates the small cafe. It feels very much at home in the neighborhood, as guests will when dining outside.
Price: RMB30-50
Who’s going: selfie-takers, bagel seekers, the Jewish community
Good for: tasty ‘bagelwiches,’ flashing a rainbow bagel on WeChat Moments
Nearest metro: Taojin (Exit A), 3 minutes
Open 11am-9pm (closed Tuesdays). See listing for About Bagel.
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